ArcaMax

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By Lesley Frederikson

In a world where Wi-Fi is essential, connections are instantaneous and entertainment is increasingly electronic, a tropical escape from the dings and beeps was a restful retreat. A trip to the second-largest barrier reef in the world for scuba diving and fishing along with a day of whitewater kayaking down Stann Creek did the trick, but it was our journey into the jungle for forest-bathing and exploration that took our breath away.

From our home base in Maya Beach, a small community on the Placencia Peninsula, we drove 20 minutes south to Placencia Village, where we met Terry Garbutt and his small boat for a 30-minute ride to Monkey River. Flying along with the wind in our hair and an occasional spray of seawater, we enjoyed the early morning crossing. Pelicans soared beside us and splashed into the sea in search of breakfast. Anhinga birds took a quieter approach, slipping quietly beneath the surface to spear fish with sharp bills.

After weaving through mangroves and between islands on our southward trek, we arrived at Monkey River, where Garbutt pulled into his dock and directed us to place our lunch orders, freshen up and return quickly to the boat. We wanted to be the first up the river to discover wildlife before other visitors arrived.

Within minutes we were on our way deep into the only true rainforest in Belize, where 180 inches or more of rain fall each year. We passed a shirtless man in a carved-out dory holding a spear and hunting for the delicious snook we would have for lunch in Quimby's kitchen after our adventure. Farther along, we saw egrets, mangrove swallows, Montezuma birds with their pendulous nests and a dozen little blue herons that flew from tree to tree, guiding us deeper into the jungle.

On one partially submerged branch we saw a family of bats clinging tightly -- impervious to the warm sunlight. On another branch hanging over the river a bright green iguana scampered to safety. Garbutt pointed out a family of howler monkeys hanging by their prehensile tails and lounging on sturdy branches to rest and watch us go by.

Farther up the river we beached our boat and crawled out for a trek through the rainforest. We saw giant bamboo on which tarantulas often are found, camouflaged our shirts with breadfruit leaves that are as strong as Velcro and pounded on a mound of leaf-cutter ants to draw out their warriors, whose strong pinchers were once used by the Mayas as staples to close wounds. Above us, families of howler monkeys bellowed to each other in deep barks that are so prehistoric-sounding that they were used to create the dinosaur voices in "Jurassic Park."

The mosquitoes were fierce, but we were forewarned and prepared with light linen shirts, hats and repellant. Back on the water, they swept away in the breeze as we moved deeper inland. Along the banks we found crocodiles sunning on sandy beaches, hiding in crannies of flotsam and floating with just their noses poking out of the fresh warm water.

Having finally found our farthest point up Monkey River, we turned around and headed back to the mouth, where a village of 200 belies the once-booming town that was one of the largest in Belize. Banana, rubber and chicle harvests once had thousands living in what is now a quiet place that time seems to have passed by.

We were welcomed into Quimby's restaurant, where fresh snook had been prepared with rice and beans. The local staple differs from its cousin beans and rice in that they are served separately instead of as a mixed blend. When conch is in season, Quimby makes the best fritters in Belize.

Outside local women stood behind tables of souvenirs that help support the village's livelihood. I found a book about Monkey River's history that was written by the man who, it turns out, had been the literature teacher for most of the people in the surrounding area.

On our way back to Placencia, Garbutt paused at the local manatee feeding grounds. These sea cows chew underwater grass like land cows and are spotted by a few specific clues. Floating sea grasses indicate they have been grazing nearby, bubbles indicate their flatulence and little noses poking out of the water for air every three to five minutes look like coconuts floating on the water. Gestation for manatees lasts 11 months, and mamas are often found swimming with a little one -- a two-for-one treat when they come to the surface for air.

Back on the dock, our phones began to ding as the world caught up with us. Garbutt motored away to a village where personal connections outweigh electronic ones. One bad storm can wipe out their water supply and have them headed upstream as they did decades ago with buckets to find the point where brackish water turns fresh. It's not a life I would choose, but it is one worth visiting, and the people we met there have become a village of friends who remind us of the benefits of finding time to power down.

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WHEN YOU GO

Naia Resort and Spa www.naiaresortandspa.com

Monkey River Natural Adventure Eco-Friendly Tours is on Facebook, or message Terry Garbutt directly on WhatsApp at +501-610-6180.

Lesley Frederikson is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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