Living Large in Valle de Guadalupe
If you're looking for some fabulous food and wine pairings with a bit of falconry thrown in, look no further than Valle de Guadalupe. Located a mere 90 miles south of San Diego in Baja California, it's the Mexican Napa Valley and an ideal getaway for experiencing delicious wines and epicurean foods far from the quotidian.
Indeed, a three-night stay at El Cielo Resort and Winery proved just the ticket to encounter all things grape and gourmet. With the valley producing more than 80% of Mexico's wine, the 242 acres where it grows the gamut of grapes -- from chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and malbec to merlot, syrah and nebbiolo -- the landscape, also dotted with fresh lavender, was the perfect backdrop for sunrises and sunsets, as well.
After checking in at the hotel and being greeted with a glass of wine, I was then taken to my room, or, to better describe it, a mini-villa. It featured a master suite, full-service kitchen, dining room, guest bathroom, Jacuzzi and lovely patio to further enhance this quick getaway. Memorable meals soon following, including at the Michelin-recognized boite, El Cielo's Latitud 32, known for its fusion of Baja and Yucatan cuisines.
And what could be better than pairing tempranillo and sauvignon blanc wines with a delectable seafood paella of shrimp, octopus and mussels? There were also several dozen oysters and a limoncello panna cotta for dessert, all of which kickstarted the journey with a gustatory bang.
It hardly seemed conceivable, but a few hours later we would be drinking and dining again, this time at Bajo las Estrellas Terrace, where the wines still flowed, along with several shots of Tequila Azul Reposado, or, as I liked to call it, my "emotional support tequila." That said, the bluefin tuna sashimi went swimmingly well with a syrah, as did a pork belly taco in chilmole sauce, a tangy, albeit slightly sweet and spicy blend of lime, vinegar, agave and chili. Capping off the feast were sangiovese 2024 and Procyon 2020 pours.
A good night's sleep followed, with breakfast at El Cielo's Polaris offering ample servings of fresh fruit, huevos rancheros and cappuccinos before my companions and I headed to the winery. There we were treated to a beginning course on falconry with Carlos, who explained that the hawk protects the grapes from pests, including rodents such as gophers, hares and squirrels, while also keeping away birds that could damage the grapes during harvest season. This, we were told, is achieved without relying on environmentally damaging chemicals, while El Cielo was also the first winery to have solar panels.
So, too, does the resort's thinking apply to its approach to food, as its organic garden is cultivated onsite, meaning many of its ingredients, including chilies, celery, figs and lemons, are sublimely tasty. With more than 700 olive trees on the property, the resort is truly self-contained.
It is not, however, a destination for dieters. This was most apparent at Smoke Kitchen's family-style feast of smoked lamb and wood-fired suckling pig, all accompanied by sides of mashed potatoes, roasted vegetables and guacamole that we washed down with a robust cabernet sauvignon and Ginasommelier Rose.
Such indulgences cried out for rest and relaxation, meaning I could then partake in a much-needed Jacuzzi, the view from the tub in my bathroom replete with vineyards as far as the eye could see. Refreshed and ready to go, I headed out for more to sip and sup. During a tour of the winery, in addition to sampling some extraordinary wines, we were feted with a delectable chocolate and wine pairing: six bon bons coupled with an array of wines proving near-orgiastic.
Happily, our party also ventured outside the resort, breakfasting at La Cocina de Dona Esthela, where chef-owner Blanca Esthela Martinez Bueno has been tending to people's culinary wants since 2008. Burritos, huevos of all kinds, chilaquiles and gorditas rellenas ruled, as did the cafe de olla and fluffy elote (corn-based) pancakes. Throwing the expression "moderation in all things" to the wind, we had our last dinner at the Presidential Suite, where the food and fire pit exceeded all expectations. Particularly tasty was a tuna tartare (kudos to the Selene 2024 syrah) and salmon with garden blood orange sauce, topped off with purple cauliflower puree. The finish included a divine chocolate and hazelnut tart accompanied by Perseus 2022, a nebbiolo-sangiovese.
It was hard to say goodbye, but we vowed to return during the harvest. Then we wended our way back -- stuffed, satisfied and smiling -- to the United States.
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WHEN YOU GO
Accommodations: elcielovalledeguadalupe.com/eng/home
Latitud 32 Restaurant: elcielovalledeguadalupe.com/eng/restaurants
La Cocina de Dona Esthela: donaestela.square.site
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Victoria Looseleaf is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com
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