French hachis Parmentier is the kind of dish that sneaks up on you. At first glance, it’s humble — ground beef, onions, and carrots baked beneath a layer of mashed potatoes — but just like its cousin, shepherd’s pie, it’s deeply comforting, surprisingly nuanced, and exactly what you want on a frigid night. But hachis Parmentier is a little softer and more classic; it’s focused on coaxing out the best flavor from good ingredients.

Hachis Parmentier is named for Antoine-Augustin Parmentier, an 18th-century French pharmacist and agronomist who is most known for his advocacy on a topic near and dear to me: People should eat more potatoes. Apparently at the time, potatoes were not particularly popular (they were feared, actually) in France — and Parmentier was really out there doing the most to change that. He published research on potato safety, and when that didn’t work he hosted potato-themed dinner parties for local celebrities like Benjamin Franklin and staged potato publicity stunts. Hachis Parmentier was named after Antoine-Augustin in part for the potato topping, and in part due to the dish’s resourcefulness. Originally, it was meant as a way to use up leftover minced pot au feu meat.

My version, like many today, relies on ground beef simmered with carrots and onions in red wine and beef broth. I like to add a dollop of Dijon mustard; it’s not traditional, but the sharpness balances the rich beef flavor in a way that tastes right to me. I add Gruyere cheese, egg yolks, and grated nutmeg to my mashed potato topping to ensure it’s rich, with a nutty depth that adds layered flavor to every bite. The top gets extra-golden in the oven, and every bite will make you extra-happy.

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Hachis Parmentier

Serves 6 to 8

For the potato topping:

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature

2 1/2 pounds gold potatoes (about 9 medium), peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided, plus more as needed

1/3 cup heavy cream

2 large egg yolks

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated or ground nutmeg

3 ounces Gruyere cheese, shredded (about 1 cup)

For the beef filling and assembly:

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, divided

2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped (about 3 cups)

3 medium carrots, peeled and diced (about 1 1/4 cups)

6 cloves garlic, finely grated or minced

1 1/2 pounds lean ground beef

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more as needed

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more as needed

1/2 cup dry red wine

2 cups low-sodium beef or chicken broth

2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves (4 sprigs), plus more for garnish

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Make the potato topping:

1. Place 2 1/2 pounds peeled and cut gold potatoes in a large saucepan or pot and add enough cold water to cover by about 1 inch. Add 1 tablespoon of the kosher salt and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer and cook until the potatoes are knife-tender, 15 to 25 minutes. (This is a good time to start cooking the filling.)

2. Drain the potatoes. Pass the potatoes through a ricer into the now-empty pot, or return the potatoes to the pot and mash with a potato masher until smooth.

3. Whisk 1/3 cup heavy cream, two large egg yolks, 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, and the remaining 1 teaspoon kosher salt in a liquid measuring cup or small bowl until combined.

4. Add the cream mixture and 6 tablespoons room-temperature unsalted butter to the potatoes. Stir until the butter is melted and the mixture is combined. Gently fold in 3 ounces shredded Gruyere cheese. Taste and season with more kosher salt as needed. Cover to keep warm.

Make the beef filling:

1. Heat the oven to 425º F.

2. Melt 2 tablespoons of the unsalted butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add two finely chopped medium yellow onions and three peeled and diced medium carrots. Cook, stirring occasionally, until starting to soften and brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in six finely grated garlic cloves and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

3. Add 1 1/2 pounds lean ground beef, 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper. Cook, breaking up the beef with a wooden spoon, until browned and cooked through, 7 to 10 minutes.

4. Add 1/2 cup dry red wine and scrape any browned bits from the bottom of the skillet. Cook until the liquid is nearly evaporated, about 1 minute.

5. Stir in 2 cups low-sodium beef broth, 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, and 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer and cook until the liquid is reduced by about 3/4, about 10 minutes. Taste and season with more kosher salt and black pepper as needed.

Assemble the casserole:

1. Transfer the filling to a 9-by-13-inch or other 3-quart baking dish and spread into an even layer. Dollop the potato topping over the filling with a flexible spatula, then spread the topping evenly over the filling, going all the way to the edges of the baking dish. Dice the remaining 2 tablespoons unsalted butter and scatter over the potatoes.

2. Bake until the potatoes are browned in spots and the filling is warmed through and bubbling, 25 to 30 minutes. Garnish with fresh thyme leaves if desired. Let cool for 10 to 15 minutes before serving.

(Rachel Perlmutter is a culinary producer for TheKitchn.com, a nationally known blog for people who love food and home cooking. Submit any comments or questions to editorial@thekitchn.com.)

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