The first time I picked sweet corn was on a friend’s farm in Wisconsin. It was at least 80 degrees the morning we spent hours snapping the ears off their tall stalks to fill sacks slung over our shoulders. I’d never eaten raw corn before, nor had I slugged icy cold water pumped into a tin cup. The experience was a revelation.

Truly fresh, organic corn is intense and complex, nutty, mildly sweet and creamy. It relies on wind and insects for pollination, and produces what the French call terroir, a taste of place shaped by the sun, rain and rich soil. It’s completely different from commercial corn, which is bred to be sugary sweet and simple. Because corn is the highest-risk crop for GMO contamination, organic varieties like “Who Gets Kissed,” “Golden Bantam,” and “Country Gentleman” can be hard to find. Look for them at local farmers markets and co-ops.

With corn so delicate and fresh, the best way to cook it is hardly at all. The simplest method is to dump shucked cobs into a pot of rapidly boiling salted water, turn off the heat and allow the corn to sit until bright and plump, about 3 to 5 minutes. Then remove, set the cobs on a clean dish towel or paper towel to fully drain and serve with plenty of butter.

A bit fussier, but even more delicious, is grilling corn for an experience that’s close to what you get at the State Fair. Remove the silk, replace the husks and set on the grill over a medium flame. Cook, rolling back and forth over the grates, until the husks are fully charred, about 15 minutes. The husks protect the corn from burning and drying out while imparting the kernels with a smoky flavor.

Corn is at its peak right now, so hurry and buy as much as you can. Use leftover cooked corn in pasta salads and cooling soups and freeze it for winter’s bluster.

Corn, Tomato and Pasta Salad

Serves 4.

Summertime in a bowl. This easy salad makes a fine dinner; feel free to bump it up with diced cooked chicken or ham. The sliced cherry tomatoes and raw corn kernels are added to the pasta after it’s drained but still hot so the veggies lightly cook to brighten their flavors. A little fresh mozzarella makes a creamy addition. Serve chilled or at room temperature. From Beth Dooley.

½ lb. bow-tie pasta, or other shaped pasta

3 c. fresh corn kernels (cut from about 3 cobs corn)

1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved

1 clove garlic, smashed and minced

¼ c. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed

2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice, or to taste

Pinch of Kosher salt

Dash black pepper

Dash red-pepper flakes

½ c. chopped basil

Basil leaves, for garnish

Directions

Bring a large pot of salted water to a rapid boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente, about 10 to 12 minutes. Drain and transfer to a large bowl. Immediately toss in the corn, cherry tomatoes and garlic. Cover and allow to cool to room temperature.

Toss in the oil and lemon juice, and season with salt, pepper, red pepper flakes and the chopped basil. Cover and allow the flavors to mingle for about 1 hour, or refrigerate for up to one day and serve chilled. Garnish with basil leaves before serving.

Cool Coconut Corn Soup

Serves 4.

This one-pot soup is the answer to a hot, hot summer night; it’s light, vegetarian and easily made ahead. From Beth Dooley.

5 ears corn (about 5 c. kernels)

2 tbsp. coconut or vegetable oil

2 shallots, minced

1 clove garlic, smashed

1 (1-in.) piece ginger, grated

Generous pinch red pepper flakes, to taste

2 small Yukon potatoes, cut into small chunks

2 ½ c. vegetable stock

1 (15-oz.) can coconut milk

1 tbsp. lime juice, or more to taste

1 tbsp. chopped cilantro

Salt and pepper, to taste

Basil leaves, for garnish

Fresh corn kernels, diced salami and corn nuts, for serving

Directions

Cut the corn kernels from the cob and transfer to a bowl. Scrape the milk from the cobs into that bowl with the back of a butter knife (skip this step if using cooked corn).

Coat a large stockpot with the oil and set over medium heat. Add the shallots, garlic, ginger and red pepper flakes and saute until fragrant and tender, about 3 minutes. Add the corn kernels and juices to the pot and saute about 2 minutes. Add the potatoes and stir to coat. Pour in the vegetable stock and coconut milk and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes.

Transfer the soup to a blender and process into a rough puree. (Alternatively, use an immersion blender and puree in the pot.) Return to the pot and season with the lime juice, cilantro, and salt and pepper. Serve at room temperature or chilled and garnish with basil leaves. Pass dishes of corn kernels, diced salami and corn nuts alongside.

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Beth Dooley is an award-winning cookbook author with more than 15 titles to her name — so far. Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com or subscribe to her newsletter at bethdooley.substack.com.

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