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JeanMarie Brownson: Crispy jacket potatoes make a cozy fall dinner

JeanMarie Brownson, Tribune Content Agency on

On a recent trip to the U.K., we enjoyed dining at several National Trust properties. We’d spend the morning touring a historic mansion, garden, or ancient site and stop for a midday meal. Many of the conservation charity's more than 500 properties feature cafes that specialize in traditional dishes made with local, sustainable ingredients.

At Wimpole Estate near Cambridge, we enjoyed toasties (hot, toasted sandwiches), scones and clotted cream. At Blists Hill Victorian Town, the handmade pasties (hand-held savory filled pies) and a wedge of Victoria sponge nourished us beautifully.

Without a doubt, our most surprising meal included a “jacket” potato at Speke Hall in Liverpool. Various toppings turn these large baked russet potatoes into main dishes. Our friends chose warm tuna salad and cheesy broccoli. I opted for a bean curry topping.

The jacket potato reminds us that a baked potato is a beautiful thing — crisp on the outside, light and fluffy on the inside. Topped with butter, salt and pepper, this simple root vegetable makes a great side. Add a spoonful of bean curry and suddenly a meatless main dish appears.

At home, for a main dish, seek out reasonably sized russet potatoes, weighing 10 to 12 ounces. Skip the temptation to microwave the potatoes or wrap them in foil. Both methods prevent the skin from crisping.

Instead, rub the potatoes with vegetable oil suited for high-heat cooking. Pierce them in several places to let steam escape as they cook. Sprinkle the skin on all sides with coarse salt before roasting in a hot oven; the salt helps crisp the skin and makes it irresistible.

You can use the same method for roasting sweet potatoes, but cook them lower and slower for the fluffiest interior. I like to cook them at 375 F for 1 to 1 1/4 hours.

For a simple vegetarian topping, saute onions with yellow squash until golden, then season with garlic, ginger and garam masala (an Indian spice blend).

Look for bottled garam masala in the spice section of supermarkets or order it online from burlapandbarrel.com

Stir in canned beans, tomatoes and pumpkin puree to make a hearty topping perfect for fall nights. A couple of cups of baby kale add green flavor and nutrition.

Many National Trust properties in the U.K. use apples grown on their grounds to make a special non-alcoholic cider. Turns out, tart apple cider makes a perfect beverage accompaniment to the potatoes. Serve the dish with a vinaigrette-dressed salad. Chocolate shortbread and a fruity sorbet make a welcome ending to the lovely meal.

Jacket Potatoes with Pumpkin and Bean Curry

Makes 4 servings

Note: Make this a vegan dish by skipping the butter and swapping coconut yogurt for the dairy yogurt. Potatoes can be baked in an air-fryer at 400 F. Cook 20 minutes, then turn them over and continue to cook until fork tender, 15 to 25 minutes more.

4 medium-sized baking potatoes, 10 to 12 ounces each

Vegetable oil for high-heat cooking, such as expeller pressed canola, safflower, avocado or peanut oil

Coarse (kosher) salt

1 medium-large yellow onion, 8 to 10 ounces, peeled, halved, thinly sliced

1 medium-sized yellow squash, about 8 ounces, quartered lengthwise, thinly sliced

 

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped or crushed

1 tablespoon refrigerated ginger paste or 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

1 1/2 teaspoons garam masala (or 1 teaspoon ground cumin, 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon and black pepper)

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, optional

1 can (14.5 ounces) diced tomatoes, with their liquid

1 can (15 ounces) bean trio or white beans, pinto beans or kidney beans, drained

1/2 of a 15-ounce can pure pumpkin puree, about 3/4 cup

2 packed cups (about 2 ounces) baby kale

4 tablespoons butter, softened, optional

1/2 cup plain yogurt or plain coconut milk yogurt

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1. Heat oven to 425 F. Scrub potatoes clean. Rub on all sides with oil. Place on a baking sheet. Pierce in several places with the tip of a knife. Sprinkle coarse salt on all sides of the potatoes. Bake, turning potatoes once or twice, until fork-tender, 50 to 60 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, heat a large 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil and then the sliced onion. Cook, stirring often, until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in yellow squash. Cook, stirring often, until squash is fork-tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, ginger, garam masala, cayenne and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook and stir 1 minute.

3. Stir in tomatoes with their liquid, drained beans and pumpkin. Simmer, stirring often, until liquids have thickened slightly, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand up to 30 minutes.

4. Reheat bean mixture if it has cooled until very hot. Remove from heat. Stir in kale until wilted.

5. When potatoes are done, place them in the center of a dinner plate or wide shallow bowl. Use a knife to cut an X in the top of the potatoes and use clean hands to push the potatoes open. Top each with a tablespoon of butter, if desired. Spoon bean curry over all. Top with a dollop of yogurt and a generous sprinkling of cilantro.

(JeanMarie Brownson is a James Beard Award-winning author and the recipient of the IACP Cookbook Award for her latest cookbook, “Dinner at Home.” JeanMarie, a chef and authority on home cooking, Mexican cooking and specialty food, is one of the founding partners of Frontera Foods. She co-authored three cookbooks with chef Rick Bayless, including “Mexico: One Plate at a Time.” JeanMarie has enjoyed developing recipes and writing about food, travel and dining for more than four decades.)

©2026 JeanMarie Brownson. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.


 

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