Gretchen's table: Got zucchini? Make summer carbonara with lemony bread crumbs
Published in Variety Menu
This summer, chances are you might be gifted some fresh veggies if one of your neighbors has a super green thumb or just can’t say no at the farmers market.
Among the most passed-along produce is zucchini since the fruit (which is treated as a vegetable in the kitchen) is easy to grow. Provided with sun and enough water, a single plant can produce a bumper crop of more than a dozen baby squashes, leading to more supply than demand.
But what if the kitchen farmer who lives next door also raises chickens, and regularly hands fresh eggs over the fence when he spies you cutting grass or pulling weeds? They’re a welcome gift, provided you love eggs for breakfast or like to bake.
I’m a fan of both, which is why I readily accepted the six brown eggs my neighbor, Omar, gave me on a recent Sunday.
I decided to use some of them to make a summery, vegetarian riff on the classic pasta dish carbonara. This simple recipe brings together pan-seared zucchini with cooked rigatoni and an easy sauce made with a creamy mix of eggs, grated Parmesan and Pecorino-Romano cheeses, lemon zest and garlic. I topped it with toasted, homemade bread crumbs tossed with a little fresh lemon zest for a crunchy finish.
Cook’s note: Be sure to take the pasta/zucchini mixture OFF the heat before adding the egg/cheese mixture or the eggs will scramble instead of dissolving into a glossy sauce. You’ll also want to save about a cup of your starchy pasta water to emulsify and thin the sauce if it seems too thick. I used almost a full cup of reserved water.
Paired with a green salad, it makes an easy and seasonal summer supper. Purists might call foul if you reheat the dish for lunch — carbonara is best eaten fresh because the sauce is extremely heat-sensitive — but if you add a little water before popping it in the microwave on low power and stir it halfway through, it will still hit the spot.
If the meat lovers in your household absolutely insist on a porky finish (carbonara is traditionally made with bacon or guanciale), crumble a little crispy, cooked bacon on top along with some extra grated Parmesan.
Zucchini carbonara
PG tested
For pasta
1 large egg plus 1 large egg yolk
1 ounce finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese (½ cup)
1 ounce finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (½ cup), plus more for garnish
1 tablespoon fresh lemon zest
1 teaspoon black pepper
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided
2 garlic cloves, smashed
1½ pounds zucchini squash (cut into ¼-inch rounds)
Kosher salt
1 pound rigatoni
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Salt and pepper
For bread crumbs
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup panko or homemade bread crumbs
Zest of 2 lemons
2 garlic cloves, grated
Whisk the egg base: In a bowl, whisk together whole egg, yolk, cheeses, lemon zest and black pepper. Set aside.
Brown the zucchini: In a 12-inch skillet, heat 1½ tablespoons olive oil and smashed garlic over medium. Cook until garlic is lightly browned (2-3 minutes), then discard garlic.
Add half the zucchini in an even layer, sprinkle with salt, and cook without stirring until golden brown on the bottom (3-4 minutes).
Flip and cook until browned; repeat with the remaining zucchini and remaining oil.
Remove from heat, and set aside.
Boil pasta in 4 quarts of salted water until al dente, about 9-10 minutes. Reserve about 1 cup of the starchy cooking water, then drain.
While pasta is cooking, prepare bread crumbs. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in medium skillet over medium heat. Add bread crumbs, lemon zest, garlic and a big pinch each of salt and pepper. Stir to mix, then continue to stir until the garlic is fragrant and the bread crumbs are evenly browned, 4-5 minutes. Remove from the pan and set aside to cool.
Return the pasta to the pot, add ½ cup of the reserved pasta water and cooked zucchini. Cook over medium-high heat for about 1 minute.
Pour in egg-cheese mixture after taking the pasta and zucchini mixture completely off heat — this is a crucial step to avoid scrambled eggs! Stir vigorously for 2-3 minutes until the sauce thickens and clings to the noodles. If it's too thick, add reserved pasta water 1 tablespoon at a time. Add red pepper flakes and toss gently to combine.
Before serving, sprinkle on a little more grated Parmesan and some toasted bread crumbs. Serve pasta in warmed bowls, with remaining bread crumbs.
lf desired, you can also add a little cooked, crispy bacon (but the dish will no longer be vegetarian).
Serves 4.
— adapted from milkstreet.com
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