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JeanMarie Brownson: A vegetable-forward bowl so satisfying you won’t miss the meat

JeanMarie Brownson, Tribune Content Agency on

A roasted carrot and barley dish at Kinross Winery in New Zealand made skipping steak easy. We photographed it before enjoying to remember its inspiring composition.

Creamy barley, rich from vegetable broth and garlic, not cream, filled a ceramic bowl. Perfectly roasted carrot segments stood on end in the barley, while tahini, spiced crumbled nuts, and parsley created a beautiful finish — all making this meatless entrée irresistible.

A convection oven, or an air fryer, easily renders large carrots into tender goodness. Roasted carrots taste sweet and sport a satisfying bite when cooked to just shy of soft. Skip roasting with olive oil and use an oil better suited to high-heat cooking instead. I’m partial to the neutral flavor of avocado oil or safflower oil. Add flavor to the carrots with a homemade spice and herb blend.

Pearled barley cooks to a creamy texture, a bit like risotto. The term pearled means the tough outer hull and some of the bran have been removed, and the grain kernel polished. Pearled barley cooks in less time than simply hulled barley. It also has a softer texture. Both types of barley are high in fiber, which helps us feel full longer.

Barley absorbs a lot of water as it cooks, typically three parts water to one part barley. When adding barley to soups, be sure there’s plenty of broth. When cooking barley as a main dish, use homemade or boxed broth, or add concentrated broth base to the cooking water, to yield a more flavorful finished dish.

A roasted garlic broth base, like Better Than Bouillon, brings bold flavor and keeps this dish vegetarian. Barley and roasted carrots pair well with crisp pistachios, herbs, and spices.

To keep dinner preparations under control, the barley and the carrots can be made a day or two in advance. Refrigerate covered and warm gently in the microwave oven before assembling the dish.

Serve the roasted carrots alongside a bitter green salad — try frisee and radicchio dressed with a red wine vinaigrette. Pair the meal with a glass of New Zealand pinot noir or a chilled sauvignon blanc to complete the dining experience.

Roasted Carrots with Barley and Pistachio Crumble

Makes 4 servings

Note; Multi-colored carrots would be attractive here too. You can substitute thinned plain yogurt or mayonnaise for the tahini.

Pistachio and parsley crumble topping, see recipe

1 teaspoon dried tarragon (or basil)

1/2 teaspoon each: salt, ground cumin, black pepper

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

4 cups broth, such as vegetable, roasted garlic or chicken

1 1/4 cups (8 ounces) pearled barley

1 1/2 to 2 pounds medium-size carrots, trimmed, peeled

3 tablespoons avocado oil, safflower oil or expeller pressed canola oil

 

3 or 4 tablespoons tahini

Fresh parsley or cilantro sprigs

1. Make the pistachio and parsley crumble.

2. Mix tarragon, salt, cumin, black pepper and garlic powder in a small dish. Heat broth in a medium-size saucepan to a boil. Add barley and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt mixture. Reduce heat to simmer. Cover the pot and simmer, stirring often, until barley is tender when tasted, about 40 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, heat oven to 400 F. Cut carrots into 2-inch logs. Put onto a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with oil and stir well to coat carrots on all sides. Sprinkle some of the remaining salt mixture over carrots. Roast, turning carrots occasionally, until fork tender and a bit golden, 20 to 30 minutes.

4. Taste and adjust seasonings in the barley. Use a slotted spoon to scoop barley onto a deep serving platter. Stand carrots on end in the barley. Drizzle with tahini. Sprinkle with pistachio crumble. Garnish with parsley or cilantro sprigs. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Pistachio and Parsley Crumble Topping

Makes about 3/4 cup

1/2 cup shelled unsalted pistachios (about 2.5 ounces)

2 tablespoons sesame seeds (white or black or a combination)

3 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley or 1 1/2 tablespoons dried parsley flakes

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon each: freshly ground black pepper, cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon ground allspice, optional

1. Put nuts into a small food processor or blender. Process with on/off turns until nuts are finely chopped (do not puree). Remove to a bowl.

2. Stir in remaining ingredients. Store refrigerated in a covered container for several days or freeze for several weeks.

(JeanMarie Brownson is a James Beard Award-winning author and the recipient of the IACP Cookbook Award for her latest cookbook, “Dinner at Home.” JeanMarie, a chef and authority on home cooking, Mexican cooking and specialty food, is one of the founding partners of Frontera Foods. She co-authored three cookbooks with chef Rick Bayless, including “Mexico: One Plate at a Time.” JeanMarie has enjoyed developing recipes and writing about food, travel and dining for more than four decades.)

©2026 JeanMarie Brownson. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.


 

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