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JeanMarie Brownson: New year, new dishes: Soup’s on! And we have some tasty recipes to share

JeanMarie Brownson, Tribune Content Agency on

Soup reigns as one of the most satisfying winter meals. Good, hot soup from the big kettle chock-full of flavors and textures warms everyone.

Canned soup reminds us of sick days home from school. On busy weeknights, we level up with soups from the supermarket refrigerated deli section. Twenty minutes gives us time to blend store-bought broth, frozen vegetables, a splash of coconut milk, and a pinch of curry powder into a speedy soup.

When we have an hour, lentils and split peas transform into hearty soups with built-in creamy satisfaction. One pound of these legumes yields 6 to 8 servings and a soup that reheats beautifully.

Split peas and lentils may look and cook similarly, but actually come from different plants. Flavor varies too. Split peas have a sweet taste profile, while lentils tend more towards earthiness. Both benefit from a base of onion and garlic sautéed in plenty of fat. Bacon fat goes particularly well, as does olive oil.

Strange to think about, but the fresher the dried lentils and split peas, the better they’ll taste and the brighter the color of the finished dish. Check package dates on grocery store shelves. Stores with imported sections often sell red lentils and yellow split peas. Bob’s Red Mill packages lentils and split peas in large sacks. Alternatively, order superior quality lentils and split peas online from Rancho Gordo.

Small red lentils create a golden-hued soup with a bit of texture. Flavored with parsnips and carrots, the soup has just a touch of sweetness from the vegetables. Green or yellow split peas welcome a smoked turkey leg or ham hock, along with sliced sausage, in the recipe that follows. Garnishes amp up the beauty of these simple soups. Set out everything from oyster crackers to chili crisp and fresh herbs.

The better the broth, the better the soup. Cook chicken wings, necks, and backs in water with some onion, carrot, celery, and garlic when you have an extra hour or so. Then strain and refrigerate for up to a week or freeze for longer. The resulting broth will have a bit of body and a rich, chicken-y flavor. When pressed for time, swap in a broth base — not a salty bouillon cube. Bases, such as Better Than Bouillon, allow the cook some control over concentration and sodium levels and are easy to keep on hand. Look for the low-sodium options or the organic versions. Other bases, such as Zoup!, can be ordered online.

Most soups reheat beautifully. Another win for the season!

Red Lentil Soup with Cauliflower and Chili Crisp

Makes 6 servings

Notes: Make this vegetarian by using a vegetable soup base or broth and olive oil. You can use 8 cups homemade or boxed broth here instead of the base and water. Look for chili crisp in the Asian section of large supermarkets or order online. Check the label for nuts if allergies are a concern.

3 tablespoons olive oil or bacon fat

1 large (8 ounces) onion, chopped

1 large or 2 small (5 to 6 ounces total) parsnips, peeled, chopped

1 medium-sized carrot, peeled, chopped

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 tablespoons low-sodium chicken or vegetable base

2 cups (16 ounces) red lentils, well rinsed

1 teaspoon dried basil

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme, optional

Salt

3 cups small cauliflower florets

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro or parley

Bottled chili crisp, to taste

1. Heat oil in a large saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion. Cook, stirring often until nicely browned, about 10 minutes. Stir in parsnips and carrot; cook until nearly tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic; cook 1 minute.

2. Stir in chicken base and 8 cups water. Stir in rinsed lentils, basil and thyme. Partly cover the pot and simmer until lentils are tender, about 40 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, fill a medium-size saucepan with water and add 1/2 teaspoon salt. Heat over high heat to a boil. Add cauliflower and cook until crisp-tender, 5 to 6 minutes. Drain.

4. If desired, use an immersion blender to coarsely puree the lentil soup, leaving as much chunkiness as desired. Taste and adjust seasonings with salt as needed.

 

5. Serve soup topped with cauliflower, cilantro and a swirl of chili crisp.

Split Pea Soup with Sausage

Makes 6 to 8 servings

Note: If celeriac is not available, substitute two large golden potatoes.

1 pound yellow or green split peas, well rinsed

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 large sweet onion, chopped

3 carrots, trimmed, chopped

2 ribs celery, trimmed, chopped

1 medium (about 14 ounces) celeriac (celery root), peeled, chopped

3 large cloves garlic, crushed

1 1/2 teaspoons dried basil

2 smoked turkey drumsticks or ham hocks (about 1 1/2 pounds)

4 cups (32 ounces) low-sodium chicken broth

Salt, freshly ground pepper to taste

2 to 3 cups thinly sliced, fully-cooked Polish sausage

Optional garnishes:

Swirl of sour cream or plain yogurt

Seasoned croutons or oyster crackers

Chopped fresh herbs

1. Put split peas into a 4-quart pot. Add cold water to cover by 2 inches. Heat to a simmer; skim off the foam. Cover; cook, stirring often, until peas are almost tender, about 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, heat oil in large saucepan. Add onion, carrots, celery and celeriac. Saute until tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in garlic and basil; cook 2 minutes.

3. Stir vegetables into peas along with the turkey drumsticks and broth. Simmer, uncovered, stirring often, about 1 hour.

4. Remove drumsticks with tongs to a plate. If desired, pull meat from bones and chop into small bits.

5. Puree soup with an immersion blender (or in batches in a blender) until as smooth as desired. Reheat soup adding the bits of turkey if desired and the sliced sausage. Serve hot with optional garnishes.

(JeanMarie Brownson is a James Beard Award-winning author and the recipient of the IACP Cookbook Award for her latest cookbook, “Dinner at Home.” JeanMarie, a chef and authority on home cooking, Mexican cooking and specialty food, is one of the founding partners of Frontera Foods. She co-authored three cookbooks with chef Rick Bayless, including “Mexico: One Plate at a Time.” JeanMarie has enjoyed developing recipes and writing about food, travel and dining for more than four decades.)

©2026 JeanMarie Brownson. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.


 

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