Ever the salad sleuth, I bravely order them even in the most unlikely spots. Like an old-world Italian restaurant in a small town in Wisconsin. In the dead of winter.

They had me at farro, gruyere and toasted pistachio at Cannova’s in Neenah, Wisconsin. Originally from Freeport, Illinois, some variation of this beloved classic restaurant has been around since Anthony Cannova, a native of Sicily, founded it in 1921.

Our group of friends felt the restaurant family’s dedication to good food on a recent Friday night. The yummy pizza and Alfredo sauce may be their pride and joy, but it was the whole grain salad that I couldn’t wait to recreate at home. Roasted cauliflower and a cider vinaigrette complement the farro grains; kale adds crunch, ripe pear and pomegranate balance everything with a bit of sweetness.

As it happens making most main-course salads, preparing the components in advance will save the cook at meal time. I make the cider vinaigrette ahead of time — you can leave it on the counter for a day or so; refrigerate it for longer storage. The cooked farro and roasted cauliflower, likewise, can be made ahead--simply rewarm them in the microwave oven.

Maria Speck, in her award-winning cookbook, “Ancient Grains,” tells us that “farro is not one kind of wheat; rather, the term is commonly used when referring to three types of ancient wheat varieties still cultivated in Italy: farro piccolo (also known by the German einkorn), farro medio (also known as emmer) and farro grande (also known as spelt).”

Folks like farro for its hearty chew, nutty taste and nutrient dense profile. I like Bob’s Red Mill organic pearled farro. It cooks to al dente tenderness in about 30 minutes. Other farro brands may vary in their cooking times; it’s best to follow the package directions.

Other grains that can be used in the salad include barley, wheat berries, quinoa or kasha (toasted buckwheat groats). Cook them according to the package. Cooked brown rice and orzo work too. Whatever you choose, use about 3 cups cooked in the recipe that follows.

For the best flavor in the finished salad, dress the warm farro (or one of the substitutes suggested above) with some of the cider vinaigrette while the grains are still warm. That way they absorb maximum flavor.

Leftovers taste great; enjoy at room temperature or take the chill off briefly in the microwave.

Farro and Roasted Cauliflower Salad with Pistachios and Gruyere

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