These Black designers are changing fashion perceptions

Others see it, too.

“They’re disrupting,” said Courtney Hammonds, a fashion educator and historian who grew up on hip-hop culture and used to make custom jeans with Andre 3000. He sees himself in them. “They’re taking things and pushing the limits, but being able to have a unique voice.”

Freedom to disrupt the industry drove celebrity designer Timeekah “Murph” Murphy to start dabbling in fashion while still serving in the military. “I just started teaching myself how to sew just because I didn’t want to look like everybody else,” said the New Jersey native whose unisex line, Alani Taylor, is named for her daughter and based in Atlanta.

Murphy identifies as masculine female, but didn’t see that represented in clothing options for Black women. By the time Murphy moved to Atlanta three years ago, she had a client list that included Beyonce, Cardi B and Megan Thee Stallion. Murphy is also the owner and CEO of The Lab, a manufacturing and creative space in Atlanta geared toward designers of color.

Murphy says Atlanta’s Black design talent is evident for professionals, but not for casual consumers. “It’s definitely here, but it’s so spread out that it looks thin to everybody else,” she said.‘That same energy’

Since 2006, Angela Watts has worked to bring more eyes to Atlanta’s Black fashion community, hosting fashion shows and other events. Watts is the founder of Atlanta Fashion Week (ATLFW), as well as Ragtrade Atlanta, an agency that offers opportunities for designers of color. Though it’s existed in some form since 2014, ATLFW officially partnered with the City of Atlanta Mayor’s Office of Film and Entertainment in October 2019.

With a background in public relations and marketing, Watts understands the value of bringing more exposure to minority-owned brands, especially in an industry. “I feel like the fashion industry has historically struggled with DEI and that makes it challenging for Black designers to gain that visibility based on their skillset and presentation,” she said.

Freeman agrees. “That’s even less for a Black brand specializing in plus-size clothing,” she said. “The funding doesn’t go to Black girls that look like me.”

Fortunately, Watts says, there are opportunities emerging for Black designers. Shops such as Moda 404, Georgio’s, Wish, Versus ATL, Closette and The Village Retail feature designers of color.

As Black man pushing a line with classic prep elements, Crumpler is used to his approach being called different. Goat by James King has taken part in ATLFW, collaborations with Bloomingdales and has a fans in Cam Newton, who has been spotted wearing his garments, and Mayor Andre Dickens. The brand is set to release its 2024 spring collection Feb. 22.

Crumpler feels that energy Watts is talking about. Atlanta is embracing his expression through fashion, so Crumpler’s keeping that in mind as he expands. “I want to open up a flagship store here,” he said. “I will expand to the other cities, but I want to take care of home first.”