Sicilian surprises in Palermo
Arab influence is also felt in Palermo's street markets, where merchants retain the tradition of singing their sales pitches. My favorite place to witness this is the Ballarò Market, the city's oldest, most authentic and liveliest market. And the Vucciria, with just a smattering of meat, fish and produce vendors, has one of the city's best street food scenes -- a one-stop shop for boiled octopus, spleen sandwiches and Sicily's famous fried rice balls (arancine).
While the Vucciria neighborhood is lively in the morning, it's even better after hours. Make it a point to explore its characteristic back lanes at night, where you'll likely stumble onto a wonderfully convivial scene under the stars -- a kaleidoscope of edgy graffiti, cheap plastic chairs, soccer on the big screen, big-eyed kids with gelato and people embracing life with Sicilian gusto.
IF YOU VISIT...
SLEEPING: Eurostars Centrale Palace, located just steps from Quattro Canti, offers 104 elegant rooms in a former noble palace (splurge, www.eurostarscentralepalace.com). AdHoc Rooms, just a stone's throw from Piazza Bellini, has five themed rooms, such as music, comics and sports (budget, www.adhocrooms.it).
EATING: Casa del Brodo, just steps from the Vucciria Market scene, is a Palermo institution (Corso Vittorio Emanuele 175, www.casadelbrodo.it). Bisso Bistrot, filling a former bookstore tucked just behind one of the Quattro Canti fountains, serves traditional Sicilian dishes in a homey, Old World interior (Via Maqueda 172a, www.bissobistrot.it).
GETTING AROUND: Though Palermo's main sights are mostly walkable, you can also ride the free shuttle bus that runs through the historic center. For sights farther away, buses and taxis are a good option.
TOURIST INFORMATION: https://turismo.comune.palermo.it.
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(Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.)
(c)2018 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.
