Whipped feta cheese is a thing of beauty. Light, yet rich; comforting, yet flavorful; and oh-so-versatile. Slather it on a toasted bagel, serve it as a dip with celery and cut vegetables, fold it into an omelet, or add a dollop to a hot, grilled steak and watch it soften. Or do as we do: Lace it with cucumber and mint, then spread it as a topping for burgers. Smashed lamb burgers, that is.

Feta, the cheese that made Greece famous, is a curd cheese made from sheep’s or goat’s milk and ripened in a salty brine. Allowed to ripen for three months, the milk develops into a tangy, salty cheese. There’s a wide variety of feta sold in Greek markets and in stores with large imported cheese sections.

While the word feta means a piece or a slice, the best textured cheeses are sold in whole blocks. Look for cheese in plastic containers imported from Greece.

I choose the softest, creamiest feta to whip with Greek yogurt and olive oil into a spreadable concoction. Add honey and a little cinnamon for a breakfast spread. Add shredded cucumber, dill and mint for a savory version.

Spread the cucumber feta in a toasted pita pocket, then fill it with a smashed lamb patty and slices of ripe tomato. For the burger patties, season ground lamb with fresh herbs and garlic. Form the mixture into balls and smash them on a hot griddle or skillet until the edges are golden and crispy.

I prefer to cook the smashed patties outside on a hot griddle to keep aromas down in the house. Set a griddle or cast-iron skillet over a hot grill and let it heat thoroughly. Alternatively, use the largest burner on the stovetop and set the exhaust fan to high. The crispiest edges on the patties come from high heat and pressing firmly on them while they cook.

Like any speedy meal, have all the parts ready before you start cooking. The whipped feta can be made several days in advance but tastes best eaten at room temperature. Slice the tomatoes, have the arugula and herbs ready. Toast the pitas and split them open.

Serve the smashed lamb patties with fresh sweet corn or grilled vegetables. Roasted potatoes seasoned with olive oil and lemon would be good too. For dessert, serve sliced peaches with honey, crumbled feta and toasted walnuts.

Whipped Feta with Cucumber

Makes 1 generous cup

Note: The creamier the feta, the richer the whipped spread. Crumbled feta works, but it will make a coarser sauce.

2 small (4 ounces total) pickling cucumbers, or 1/2 of a seedless cucumber

Salt

1 clove garlic

1/3 cup plain Greek yogurt

3 to 4 tablespoons Greek olive oil

1 cup (5 ounces) feta cheese, broken into pieces

Grated rind of 1/2 lemon

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, fennel fronds or mint leaves, or a combination

2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives or green onion tops

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Use the large holes on a four-sided grater to shred the cucumber into a colander. Sprinkle lightly with salt and let stand over a bowl to draw out excess liquid for 10 minutes or so. Squeeze dry.

2. To chop garlic, drop it into a food processor or blender while it’s running. Add yogurt and olive oil; process smooth. Add feta. Process until light and fluffy. Remove to a bowl and stir in lemon rind, dill and chives. Stir in cucumber. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Refrigerate covered up to several days. Serve at room temperature.

Smashed Lamb Burgers in Pita Pockets

Makes 4 servings

Note: Look for ground lamb, 85% lean, imported from Australia, sold in large supermarkets.

1 pound ground lamb

2 to 3 tablespoons chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as dill, mint, chives, parsley

2 small cloves garlic, crushed

1/2 teaspoon each: salt, dried Greek oregano, finely crumbled

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 large red onion, peeled, ends trimmed

Vegetable oil for high heat cooking

2 large whole wheat pita breads with pockets

Whipped feta with cucumber, see recipe

4 thick slices ripe tomato

1 cup baby arugula leaves

Chopped fresh herbs, for garnish

1. Put lamb into a bowl. With clean hands, fold in chopped herbs, garlic, salt, oregano, black pepper and red pepper flakes. Divide evenly into eight portions and roll each into a ball. Refrigerate for up to two hours.

2. Slice red onion into 1/2-inch thick rounds. Brush both sides with oil. Heat a large well-seasoned cast-iron griddle or nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until a drop of water sizzles on contact. Add onion slices and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook, turning once, until tender and deeply golden, about 10 minutes. Separate into rings when cool enough to handle.

3. Wipe the griddle or skillet clean. Set pitas in the skillet to toast. Cut pitas crosswise in half. Open the pockets on the pita bread. Spread a generous amount of the whipped feta inside the pockets. Top each with some cooked onion rings and a tomato slice and set near the cooking surface along with the arugula and herb garnish.

4. Heat the griddle over medium-high heat until a drop of water sizzles on contact. Place four lamb balls on the griddle. Use a large metal spatula to flatten each ball to 1/4-inch thick. Apply pressure with a second spatula if necessary. Cook until browned, about 1 minute. Use the metal spatula to flip the patties. Cook second side about a minute more for medium-rare. Immediately tuck two patties into each prepared pita pocket. Top with arugula and chopped herbs. Serve.

5. Repeat with remaining lamb to make four sandwiches.

(JeanMarie Brownson is a James Beard Award-winning author and the recipient of the IACP Cookbook Award for her latest cookbook, “Dinner at Home.” JeanMarie, a chef and authority on home cooking, Mexican cooking and specialty food, is one of the founding partners of Frontera Foods. She co-authored three cookbooks with chef Rick Bayless, including “Mexico: One Plate at a Time.” JeanMarie has enjoyed developing recipes and writing about food, travel and dining for more than four decades.)

©2026 JeanMarie Brownson. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.