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Apple season has arrived, and so have the recipes

JeanMarie Brownson, Tribune Content Agency on

Peak apple season is upon us. Two dozen local Honeycrisp apples currently fill my refrigerator drawers. More to come. In the next couple of weeks, our second fridge also will hold a wide variety of apples: the ultra crisp SweeTango, super sweet Golden Delicious, crunchy Gala, perfumey Fuji and barely sweet russets. Red Delicious need not show up. Jonathon and McIntosh apples never make it to cold storage; they are destined for our supply of homemade applesauce.

Apples keep well in the refrigerator crisper drawers, often for several months. Separate them with paper toweling and avoid stacking too tightly, which can cause bruising. Generally, thicker-skinned apples, such as Honeycrisp and McIntosh, keep better than the thin-skinned Golden Delicious and Gala varieties. Use up any bruised apples quickly and don’t store them with other apples — remember one rotten apple can indeed spoil the bunch.

The most versatile of fruits, apples walk the line between sweet treats and savory sides. Add chunks of apples and sweet onions to the roasting pan alongside a chicken or pork roast, for example. Add tiny bits of tart apple to tuna or chicken salad for crunch. Caramelize thick apple slices with brown sugar and butter for a rich ice cream topping.

Homemade applesauce proves a far cry from the soupy, bland packaged versions sold on supermarket shelves. The most time-consuming task is peeling and coring the apples, so consider enlisting help and enjoying the process. Once peeled, roughly chop the apples and simmer them with sugar and a little butter until soft enough to mash. Timing depends on the variety of apples — softer apples cook quickly. Season the apple mash to your tastes. The recipe that follows combines a variety of apples and sweet spices with a touch of vinegar for a sweet-tart side dish perfect with roasted pork or as a topping for pancakes.

Apple cake makes the best breakfast or after-school snack. The recipe that follows uses a touch of whole wheat flour for flavor and a hearty texture. SweeTango, Honeycrisp, Pink Lady and Cosmic Crisp work well here so the cake sports little nuggets of apple goodness.

Gussy up a square of warm apple cake for a special dessert by adding a scoop of vanilla or cinnamon ice cream and a drizzle of warm caramel sauce.

Spiced Chunky Applesauce

Makes about 3 cups

Note: I like to use a combination of McIntosh, Honeycrisp and Gala apples in this recipe for texture, flavor and just a bit of sweetness. This recipe doubles easily; adjust cooking time as needed.

5 large apples (2 pounds total), peeled, cored, roughly chopped, about 6 cups

1/2 cup sugar

3 tablespoons butter

1 to 2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar or lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon each: salt, ground cloves, ground allspice

1. Put apples, sugar, butter and 1/3 cup water into a large saucepan. Cook uncovered, stirring often, over medium heat until apples are almost soft, about 15 minutes. (Add more water if needed to keep apples from scorching.) Cover the pan and let simmer on low, stirring often, until apples are completely soft, about 10 minutes.

2. Stir in remaining ingredients. Use a potato masher to crush apples as finely as you prefer. Remove from heat and cool. Refrigerate covered up to a week.

Apple Walnut Snack Cake

Makes 8 servings

1 cup chopped walnuts

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 cup whole wheat flour (or all-purpose flour)

 

1 cup sugar

1 teaspoon baking soda

3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon each: ground nutmeg, ground cloves

1/2 cup full fat mayonnaise

1/4 cup plain Greek yogurt

1 large egg, beaten

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

2 medium-sized Honeycrisp or other firm apples, peeled, cored, finely chopped, about 1 1/2 cups

1/3 cup currants or raisins, optional

For serving:

Confectioners sugar, optional

Vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce, optional

1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour an 8-by-8-inch baking pan. Place a 4-inch-wide strip of parchment over the bottom of the pan letting the paper extend about two inches over the sides (this will help you to remove the cake from the pan).

2. Put walnuts onto a baking sheet and bake until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Remove and cool.

3. Put flours, sugar, baking soda, cinnamon, salt, nutmeg and cloves into a large mixer bowl. Use a whisk to combine well. Add mayonnaise, yogurt, egg and vanilla. Set the mixer to low and beat, scraping the bowl once or twice, until flour is just moistened. Batter is thick. Use a large rubber spatula to fold in apples, currants and half of the walnuts.

4. Scrape the mixture into the prepared pan. Tap the pan on the counter to remove any air bubbles. Sprinkle remaining walnuts over the top of the batter. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in the center is withdrawn clean, about 45 minutes. Cool on a wire rack for 20 minutes. Run a knife around the edge of the cake to loosen it from the sides of the pan. Use the overhanging paper to lift the cake out of the pan to the wire rack.

5. Cut into eight squares. Serve warm. Dust with confectioners sugar or serve with ice cream and caramel sauce if desired.

(JeanMarie Brownson is a James Beard Award-winning author and the recipient of the IACP Cookbook Award for her latest cookbook, “Dinner at Home.” JeanMarie, a chef and authority on home cooking, Mexican cooking and specialty food, is one of the founding partners of Frontera Foods. She co-authored three cookbooks with chef Rick Bayless, including “Mexico: One Plate at a Time.” JeanMarie has enjoyed developing recipes and writing about food, travel and dining for more than four decades.)

©2024 JeanMarie Brownson. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.


 

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