A cook can rest easy when the pantry and the refrigerator contain ingredients for a pot full of homemade soup. During cold weather, dried mushrooms, thick-skinned squash and refrigerated spice purees facilitate many variations of a hearty, warm soup.

For a satisfying creamy vegan soup, simmer dried black or shiitake mushrooms with a few standard vegetables, a piece of ginger and an optional piece of seaweed for a deeply-flavored soup starter. Then add chunks of butternut squash and a squeeze of ginger or lemongrass puree, and cook until the squash is fall-apart tender. An immersion blender renders it all into velvety goodness.

Mushroom stock adds the umami satisfaction of a meat or poultry-based broth without the animal component. You also can use packaged mushroom broth, such as the one from Pacific Foods, or the concentrated mushroom base from Better Than Bouillon. Hold off on adding salt until you’ve tasted the soup.

As for that difficult-to-cut-up butternut squash, you have options. Of course, you can (carefully) tackle the squash with a large knife and cutting board. Pre-diced cubes of butternut squash, sold in the refrigerated section of the produce department remove the hassle. Use this pre-cut vegetable within a day or so of purchasing to avoid spoilage. Cubes of frozen diced butternut are a standard freezer staple in my house — buy several bags — you’ll find many uses for this convenient item.

When time allows, whirl together a fresh condiment from roasted poblano, cilantro and mint. A swirl of the puree enhances the soup with a refreshing green brightness. The condiment can be made a day or two in advance and kept tightly covered in the refrigerator.

The soup reheats well. If desired, add a few tablespoons of coconut cream or heavy whipping cream for a luxurious soup.

For a fast pumpkin soup, substitute two cans (15 ounces each) pure pumpkin puree for the squash and reduce cooking time to 20 minutes.

Mushroom-Ginger Stock

Makes 2 quarts

18 dried shiitake mushroom caps, about 1 ounce OR 10 dried black mushroom caps

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