Eggnog so defines Christmas for our family that we have a set of glasses designated only for our annual toast. Topped with freshly grated nutmeg, the combination of iconic flavors embraces the history of all holidays, past, present and future.

After the requisite salute, we work eggnog into sweet breads, cookies and alcoholic beverages. Perhaps our favorite way to use the creamy beverage is in a batch of French toast. Topped with bright red lingonberries or warm whole berry cranberry sauce, this is a brunch dish suitable for Christmas morning or a New Year’s Day party.

Look for eggnog that comes from a local dairy if possible. Otherwise, read labels and choose a brand that uses less artificial ingredients and favors less sugars, real vanilla, etc. Since this is holiday fare, I opt for full-fat versions rather than gum-thickened light varieties.

Choose your own French toast adventure

An overnight French toast casserole means less work the day of the meal as everything can be assembled in advance. The final dish has a crispy golden top and pudding-like interior from the liquid-absorbed bread. A powdered sugar garnish and a side of special jam or fresh fruits make this an ideal serve-yourself item.

French toast cooked on a stovetop on a buttery griddle requires less egg mixture and more of the cook’s attention. The result is individual slices of golden, egg-soaked toast that welcomes syrupy toppings.

Eggnog French Toast Casserole with Lingonberries

Makes 6 to 8 servings

5 tablespoons butter, softened

1 loaf (15 to 18 ounces) challah bread (with or without raisins) or raisin bread

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