As I write my 1,000th column, I am reminded of the most wonderful bites/tastes I have experienced. This recipe for gougères is the perfect one to celebrate, and it was included in a fun new book — “Retro Recipes” by Bobby Hicks — that landed on my desk recently.

Imagine other dishes like vinegar pie, tomato aspic, biscuits, chicken divan and those famous Jello salads from long ago. “Retro Recipes: Vintage Dishes with a Modern Twist” is a modern cook’s love letter to the past.

These cheesy puffs became popular in the 1960s. They are made from choux pastry (pronounced “shoe”) combined with shredded nutty Gruyere cheese, piped out on a baking sheet and baked until they become golden brown puffy gems of deliciousness. I have served these as we sip cocktails or even as a surprise as we begin the meal. They are so good. Try to time these coming out of the oven as your guests have arrived so they can be served hot.

I’ve simplified the recipe to make it easy to follow. While most versions use a wire whisk to combine the ingredients, I find an electric hand mixer works better because it blends the dough more smoothly. Give these a try when you have time to practice your pastry skills, and watch your guests delight in these airy cheese puffs.

Gougères (Cheese Puffs)

Makes about two dozen

1 cup water

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup all-­purpose flour

3/4 teaspoon salt

4 large eggs

2 cups shredded Gruyere or mild cheddar cheese

2 large egg yolks, for egg wash

1. Preheat the oven to 425 F with a rack in the middle position. Place parchment paper on two sheet pans.

2. In a medium saucepan, heat the water and butter over medium heat until the butter is melted. Add the flour and salt and cook, stirring with a spatula, until a dough forms and a skin begins to appear on the bottom of the pot. Remove from the heat and allow to cool for a couple minutes.

3. Using an electric mixer, beat in the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition. The batter may look separated at first, but continue mixing until smooth before adding each egg. Mix in the cheese, until completely blended.

4. Spoon or pipe the dough onto the parchment-lined sheet pans in 1 1/2-inch rounds, spacing them two to three inches apart. (Don’t stress if you don’t have a pastry bag. Use a tablespoon or small scooper instead.) Beat the egg yolks to make an egg wash, then brush it over the tops and sides. Bake for about 25 minutes, or until the puffs are golden brown. Let cool for about 15 minutes to crisp slightly, then serve warm.

Recipe notes: Once completely cooled, you can store the gougères in an airtight container at room temperature for up to two days, or refrigerate for up to five days. Warm them back up in a 350 F oven for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

Excerpted from “Retro Recipes: Vintage Dishes with a Modern Twist” by Bobby Hicks. Used with permission of the publisher, The Countryman Press, a division of W. W. Norton & Company, Inc. All rights reserved.

(Diane Rossen Worthington is an authority on new American cooking. She is the author of 18 cookbooks, including “Seriously Simple Parties,” and a James Beard Award-winning radio show host. You can contact her at www.seriouslysimple.com.)

©2026 Diane Rossen Worthington. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.