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JeanMarie Brownson: Vanilla bean there, done that? Think again

JeanMarie Brownson, Tribune Content Agency on

At the local ice cream shop, my 4-year-old granddaughter asked her mother to read the names of every flavor posted. Two-dozen descriptions later, the 4-year-old ordered vanilla. She declared it perfect. Smart child.

Why anyone would classify vanilla as basic, I’ll never understand. It truly is one of the most complex flavors and aromas in the world. Vanilla flavors thousands of foodstuffs, perfumes, candles and lotions.

Early in my food career, I had the privilege of seeing the slender green vanilla pods growing on their vines in Mexico. We also toured the farm where the pods were air- and sun-cured. There, I recognized the dark, richly aromatic, teeny seed-filled pods I tuck into custards and ice cream bases.

Recently, a group of women in the food and hospitality industry toured the Nielsen-Massey Vanilla plant in Illinois. Matt Nielsen guided us through a vanilla tasting while educating us about the pollination of the vanilla orchid. Matt and his siblings are fourth-generation producers of some of the finest pure vanilla extracts from vanilla grown in a few countries around the world.

Pure vanilla is vastly different from imitation vanilla. Sure, the pure extracts cost more, but also deliver a big bang for the buck. Definitely worth the investment when making homemade desserts and sauces. When using boxed cake and brownie mixes, read labels for pure vanilla. Ditto for store-bought ice creams and other vanilla-flavored treats. Steer clear of imitation vanillas whenever possible--they taste fake and chemically.

Look for pure vanilla extracts in the baking aisle of large supermarkets. Vanillas from Madagascar are most popular; Tahiti produces small amounts of very delicious and very expensive vanilla. Mexico produces a fair amount, but be sure to read labels, as many items labeled Mexican vanilla can contain artificial flavor.

Vanilla bean paste, made from the ground pods and seeds and sweetened slightly, can be found at Trader Joe’s and Costco. The paste proves delicious. Use it when baking in the same quantities as the extract. Try the runny paste over plain yogurt as a breakfast treat or stirred into strong coffee.

This summer, vanilla pudding packed in jars will be my treat at picnics and potlucks. Layer the pudding with vanilla-infused crushed berries, and the dessert feels like summer in a jar.

Crushed berries flavored with vanilla taste great over pancakes, waffles and ice cream. Vanilla whipped cream adds joy to anything it touches such as vanilla pudding, sliced strawberries, brownies, ice cream sundaes — you name it.

Vanilla. The flavor of the day. Every day for my granddaughter and me.

Vanilla and Summer Berry Pudding Cups

Makes 8 servings

Note: If desired, you can spoon the pudding into a 2-quart serving bowl to make one large pudding.

1 whole egg

3 large egg yolks

5 level tablespoons cornstarch

3 cups heavy whipping cream

1 1/2 cups whole milk

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) cold unsalted butter, diced

2 teaspoons vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract

1 cup sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup water

Mixed berry compote, for serving, see recipe

Vanilla whipped cream, for serving, see recipe

Mint sprigs and whole raspberries, for garnish

 

1. Set a large bowl full of ice near the cooking surface. Nestle a medium-size bowl into the ice. Set a fine wire mesh strainer in the medium-size bowl. Have a ladle near the cooking surface.

2. Put the whole egg, egg yolks and cornstarch into a small bowl. Whisk together until smooth. Mix cream and milk in a large bowl. Set the butter and vanilla near the stove.

3. Put sugar, salt and 1/2 cup water into a deep, large saucepan. Set over medium-high heat and heat to a boil, carefully swirling the pan to dissolve the sugar and salt. Cover with a lid for 1 minute to be sure all sugar crystals are dissolved. Uncover and continue to cook until the syrup is a light amber color, 3 to 4 minutes. Do not walk away or it could burn.

4. Working carefully, immediately whisk the cream mixture into the sugar syrup, Keep stirring to thoroughly dissolve any sugar that has turned solid. When all the sugar is dissolved, heat the mixture to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low.

5. Ladle one scoop of the hot cream mixture into the egg mixture and stir to combine. (This is a gentle way to warm the eggs without overcooking them.) Repeat with one more ladle of hot cream mixture. Stir the now-warm egg mixture into the remaining cream mixture in the saucepan. Whisk constantly until the mixture thickens, about 2 minutes. Do not boil or eggs may curdle. The pudding should coat the back of a spoon. Remove from heat. Whisk in the cold butter and vanilla until butter is thoroughly melted.

6. Immediately scrape the pudding into the wire mesh strainer set in the medium-size bowl. Push the pudding through the strainer into the bowl to remove any lumps. Let the mixture cool over the ice, stirring occasionally.

7. To assemble, spoon a generous tablespoon of the mixed berry compote into the bottom of eight serving cups or pint-sized jars with lids. Use a 1/2-cup measuring cup to divide the pudding evenly among the jars. Top each pudding with about 2 tablespoons of the mixed berry compote. Cover and refrigerate up to three days.

8. To serve, top with a swirl of vanilla whipped cream. Garnish with raspberries and mint.

Mixed Berry Compote with Vanilla

Makes about 2 cups

3 to 4 cups mixed ripe raspberries, blueberries and sliced strawberries OR 1 bag (12 ounces) frozen mixed berries, thawed

1/4 cup sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla bean paste or pure vanilla extract

Pinch salt

1. Put berries into a bowl. Crush berries with a potato masher until a coarse puree.

2. Stir sugar, vanilla and salt into berries. Refrigerate covered up to three days.

Whipped Vanilla Cream

Makes about 2 cups

1 cup heavy whipping cream

2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar, sifted

Pinch salt

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla paste or pure vanilla extract

1. Put cream into a deep, medium-sized bowl. Use an electric mixer to beat to frothy. Add sugar and salt; beat until soft peaks form. Beat in vanilla. Refrigerate covered up to one day.

(JeanMarie Brownson is a James Beard Award-winning author and the recipient of the IACP Cookbook Award for her latest cookbook, “Dinner at Home.” JeanMarie, a chef and authority on home cooking, Mexican cooking and specialty food, is one of the founding partners of Frontera Foods. She co-authored three cookbooks with chef Rick Bayless, including “Mexico: One Plate at a Time.” JeanMarie has enjoyed developing recipes and writing about food, travel and dining for more than four decades.)

©2026 JeanMarie Brownson. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.


 

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