1/2 cup heavy whipping cream or crème fraiche or a combination

Salt, freshly ground black pepper

1 cup fresh or thawed frozen peas or baby lima beans

8 to 12 ounces smoked salmon, skin removed, checked for bones

1 or 2 tablespoons minced fresh dill

Red pepper hot sauce, for serving

1. Use a very sharp knife to slice leeks crosswise into -1/4-inch-wide pieces. Slice only the white and pale green portions (reserve the dark green portion for another use). If using onion, cut into a small dice. Cut potatoes into 1/2-inch dice. Slice carrots into 1/4-inch thick coins. Cut bell pepper into small dice.

2. Melt butter in a large saucepan or medium-size Dutch oven over medium heat. Add leeks or onion; cook and stir until softened, about 8 minutes. Stir in potatoes, carrots, bell pepper, celery and garlic; cook 3 minutes.

3. Stir in broths. Heat to a simmer; reduce heat to low. Cook, stirring occasionally, until carrots are fork-tender, about 15 minutes. (This base can be made several days in advance and refrigerated.)

4. Shortly before serving, heat soup base to simmer. Stir in dissolved arrowroot and heat to a boil while stirring continuously. Mixture should thicken slightly. Stir cream into soup base and season with salt and pepper Add peas and cook 1 minute. Break smoked salmon into large attractive bite-sized flakes. Add salmon to soup and heat through.

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