A stew usually means that pieces of meat or poultry are browned and then slowly cooked over low heat with some liquid. Vegetables are often added for additional flavor, and the long, slow cooking in liquid allows the meat to gradually tenderize.

Stews are best made with tougher cuts of meat, which means they are less expensive to prepare. That's a bonus that we all could use these days.

What really makes a beef stew a standout dish? The single most important tip is to select the right cut of beef. I have tried many cuts, with mixed results. The biggest problem is that the meat can become dry and stringy, which no sauce can rescue. If you use beef chuck roast, you will have a juicy, tender and flavorful stew.

This stew is not fancy, but it has a taste memory that makes me happy. It reminds me of my mother's basic American beef stew with some added flourishes. Chunks of beef chuck are dusted with flour, browned and slowly cooked in a zesty red wine and stock to bring out the rich beef flavor. Red wine vinegar adds a zing, and the tomato paste and herbs brighten the stew.

Serve this stew in shallow soup or pasta bowls garnished with parsley. I like to serve with a large basket of crusty country bread. Begin dinner with a simple green salad sprinkled with creamy blue cheese and toasted nus, dressed with simple citrus vinaigrette. Accompany the meal with a hearty zinfandel or merlot, and use it in the cooking as well. All you need is a crackling fire to create a cozy and delicious atmosphere to enjoy this cold weather gem.

Tasty Tips

--Letting the stew come to room temperature and then refrigerating overnight will further improve the flavor; it will also make removing any excess fat much easier.

--If desired, you can add 1 pound of sauteed button mushrooms to the stew when you add the defrosted baby onions.

--Beer can be substituted for the wine.

--Use other vegetables, such as cut-up parsnips or winter squash, and add along with the baby carrots.

...continued