Thanksgiving in California, especially Southern California, can sometimes feel a little like the twilight zone. After all, the temperature in most other places across the nation is chilly and the weather often inclement. And the food that we're supposed to eat is usually heavy comfort food, which doesn't quite align with palm trees and sunshine.

Even with the atypical autumn California weather we often experience, I still like my traditions. Homemade mashed potatoes, a cranberry relish and a pumpkin dessert are expected at the meal. But sometimes it's fun to shake up tradition.

If I am having a small group, I like to serve Cornish hens with dried cranberries instead of turkey. This is one of those recipes that you can make quickly and without a lot of fuss; and let's face it, there are times when cooking up a giant feast isn't in the cards. Even for Thanksgiving

Ask your butcher to halve the hens for you. They cook faster, and they are more attractive served on the plate. Figure half of a hen per person and one hen for a large eater. I've also included my favorite cranberry relish, uncooked and utterly delicious. It makes a lovely accompaniment with the addition of apple, pear, raspberry and toasted almonds.

If you got off the hook this year with no cooking and all you have to do is be the good guest, consider bringing a wonderful bottle of California zinfandel or Beaujolais nouveau; or a few See's Candies chocolate-wrapped turkeys for the harried host; or a bottle of homemade cranberry relish (recipe follows). Any of these would make a wonderful gift for your host. Happy Thanksgiving!

Roasted Cornish Hens with Dried Cranberries

Serves 4 to 6

For the marinade:

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons sherry or Marsala

1/4 cup olive oil

2 shallots, minced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the hens:

3 Cornish hens, about 1 1/2 pounds each, cut in half

1 bunch watercress, for garnish

For the dried cranberries:

1/4 cup dried cranberries

1/2 cup white wine

1. Combine the marinade ingredients in a small mixing bowl. Place the hen halves in a zip-top bag, and pour in the marinade. Make sure the marinade is evenly distributed. Zip the bag and refrigerate for 2 to 8 hours.

2. Preheat the oven to 425 F. Remove the hens from the marinade and place them in a heavy roasting pan, breast side up. Pour over the remaining marinade. Roast the hens about 40 to 45 minutes, basting with the pan juices every 15 minutes, until the hens are golden brown and no pinkness remains in the thigh.

3. Place the hens on a serving platter and cover with foil.

4. Add the cranberries and wine to the hens' juices and place on top of the stove on medium-high heat. Reduce the juices for about 3 minutes or until the cranberries are softened. Taste for seasoning. Spoon over the hens, garnish with the watercress and serve immediately.

Advance preparation: This may be made through Step 1 up to 8 hours ahead and refrigerated.

Cranberry Almond Relish

Serves 6 to 8

This is a standard dish on my Thanksgiving table. A hot sugar syrup softens the cranberries so that the fruit is slightly crunchy. Raspberries, rum and toasted almonds add a unique touch. This is also good with roast chicken or duck.

1/2 cup blanched, slivered almonds

1 (12-ounce) bag of fresh cranberries, washed and picked over

1 cup sugar

1 cup water

1 medium pippin apple, peeled cored and quartered

1 medium pear, peeled, cored and quartered

2 teaspoons minced orange zest

3/4 cup fresh or frozen and defrosted raspberries

1/4 cup light rum

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

Fresh mint sprigs, for garnish

1. Preheat the oven to 350 F. Toast the almonds in the oven for 7 to 10 minutes or until lightly browned. Reserve.

2. Spoon the cranberries into a food processor fitted with the metal blade, and chop them coarsely by pulsing the machine a few times. Transfer the cranberries to a large mixing bowl.

3. Combine the sugar and water in a medium saucepan on medium heat, and bring to a simmer. Cook the syrup until the sugar is dissolved and the liquid is clear. Immediately pour the syrup over the cranberries, and mix well. This is the only time the cranberries are "cooked" through the heat of the syrup.

4. Place the apple and pear in the food processor fitted with the metal blade and coarsely chop the fruit. Transfer to the cranberry mixture. Add the orange zest, raspberries, rum and nutmeg, and mix gently to combine. Taste for seasoning.

5. Spoon into a serving bowl and garnish with fresh mint. Add the almonds just before serving.

Advance preparation: This may be prepared two days ahead through Step 4, covered and refrigerated. Add the almonds just before serving.

(Diane Rossen Worthington is an authority on new American cooking. She is the author of 18 cookbooks, including "Seriously Simple Parties," and a James Beard Award-winning radio show host. You can contact her at www.seriouslysimple.com.)