Rick Steves’ Europe: Café chitchat, chocolate cake, and the Vienna opera
After the defeat of Napoleon in 1815, the Congress of Vienna shaped 19th-century Europe. Vienna enjoyed its violin-filled belle époque, which shaped our romantic image of the city: fine wine, cafés, waltzes, and these great chocolate cakes. The waltz was the rage and “Waltz King” Johann Strauss and his brothers kept Vienna’s 300 ballrooms spinning. This musical tradition created the prestigious Viennese institutions that tourists enjoy today: the opera, Boys’ Choir, and great Baroque halls and churches, all busy with classical concerts.
As we split up the bill and drain the last of our coffee, the women take opera tickets out of their purses in anticipation. “Where will you be sitting?” Loni asks.
“Actually, I’ll be standing,” I say. “I’ve got a Stehplatz, a standing-room-only ticket.” (Vienna opera makes sure students and music-lovers with limited budgets can see performances on the cheap — if they don’t mind climbing to the top of the theater and standing.)
The women look at me kindly, perhaps wondering if they should have paid for my cake and coffee.
“A Stehplatz is just €4. So I have money left over for more Sacher torte,” I tell them with a smile. What I don’t say is that, for me, three hours is a lot of opera. A Stehplatz allows me the cheap and easy option of leaving early.
Leaving the café, we talk opera as we cross the street. The prestigious Vienna Opera isn’t backed in the pit by the famous Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra, but by its farm team: second-string strings. Still, Loni reminds me, “It’s one of the world’s top opera houses.” Even with 300 performances a year, expensive seats are normally sold out — mostly to well-dressed, Sacher torteeating locals. Saying goodbye to my new friends, I head for the standingroom ticket window. Cackling as old friends do, they waltz through the grand floor entrance and into another evening of high Viennese culture.
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(Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European guidebooks, hosts travel shows on public TV and radio, and organizes European tours. This article was adapted from his new book, For the Love of Europe. You can email Rick at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.)
©2020 Rick Steves. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.
(c)2020 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.
