When I head to a favorite farmers market, I usually have a few very specific ingredients in mind so I can make a few very specific dishes — say, heirloom slicing tomatoes for sandwiches, corn for Mexican elote or cilantro and other fresh herbs for a bright and zesty chimichurri.

This past weekend, for example, I was on the hunt for plump and juicy Italian plums so I could make one of my husband’s favorite end-of-summer desserts: Marian Burros’ plum torte, which has been a favorite recipe ever since it was published in The New York Times way back in 1983. (It’s fabulous!)

While there were piles (and piles) of another favorite summer stone fruit —yellow peaches — I could not find the small, egg-shaped purple fruit that cooks up so wonderfully jammy. But I still walked away from the market with a smile, thanks to a beautiful display of locally cultivated fungi sitting next to the cash register.

Oyster mushrooms with broad, fan-like caps and ruffled edges immediately caught my eye. In an instant, I was pondering what I could make for dinner that night instead of fretting over what I wouldn’t be able to make for dessert.

Thanks to their meaty texture, oyster mushrooms make an excellent substitute for beef, pork or chicken in any number of dishes. (They become slightly chewy when cooked.) Their porous, spongy flesh, which is filled with air pockets, also make the fungi an excellent medium for soaking up whatever other flavors are in the pan. Another plus: Since they cook in a flash, they’re a perfect building block for an quick midweek meal.

Inspired by a recipe for a spicy stir-fry that I found online as I stood in line at the register, I decided to buy one of the feathery clusters.

The original recipe calls for pounded and finely chopped fresh lemongrass, a culinary herb with a fresh, citrusy aroma and flavor that’s easy to find in most Asian markets. Unfortunately, it can be an oddball item in smaller grocery stores. No worries: I substituted ready-to-use lemongrass paste, and added a splash of fresh lime juice just before serving to add some of the missing zing. A handful of sugar snap peas gives the dish its crunch and bright green pops of color; chopped jalapeno peppers and a finishing sprinkle of crushed red pepper flakes add a little heat.

I served most of the stir-fry with a side of steamed white rice, and tossed the leftovers with cooked ziti for lunch the next day. Both were pretty tasty.

Cook’s note: Oyster mushrooms should have firm, gray or tan caps with a velvety texture and a mild, fruity aroma. Avoid ones with broken edges, dark discolorations or slimy gills. They’re best within a few days of harvest.

Spicy Oyster Mushroom and Lemongrass Stir-Fry

PG tested

Mushrooms are mostly water, so they release their internal juices as they heat up in a dry pan. So don’t worry if the sauce seems dry at first.

Add more or less jalapeno or Fresno chile, depending on taste.

2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil

½ small yellow onion, cut into thick wedges

3 tablespoons lemongrass paste

1 large Fresno chile or jalapeño, quartered, seeds removed, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

2 teaspoons Madras-style curry powder

¼ teaspoon sugar

⅛ teaspoon ground turmeric, optional

½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

10-12 ounces oyster mushrooms, torn into thick, bite-size pieces

4 ounces (about 1 cup) sugar snap peas, ends trimmed, strings removed

1 tablespoon fish sauce

Splash of fresh lime juice

Chopped green onion, for garnish

Crushed red pepper flakes, for garnish

Cooked white or brown rice, for serving

Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large wok or a nonstick or carbon-steel skillet over medium heat.

Add sliced onion and lemongrass paste and cook, stirring often, until onion starts to soften, about 2 minutes.

Add Fresno chile or jalapeño, chopped garlic, curry powder, sugar, ground turmeric (if using) and kosher salt. Cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

Add torn oyster mushrooms and cook, stirring, until coated. Increase heat to high and cook, stirring often, until firm-tender, 2-3 minutes.

Add sugar snap peas and cook, stirring, until warmed through and glistening, about 1 minute.

Add fish sauce and a splash of lime juice and cook, stirring, 30 seconds. Taste stir-fry and season with more salt if needed.

Transfer to a platter to serve. Garnish with green onions and pepper flakes and serve with hot cooked rice.

Serves 4.

— adapted from Bonappetit.com

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