As a promoter of simple cooking techniques with delicious results, I was very interested in Carla Lalli Music's book, "Where Cooking Begins: Uncomplicated Recipes to Make You A Great Cook" (Clarkson Potter, 2019).

Her philosophy is simple and straightforward: "Cooking begins when you feel the spark, when you know what you are hungry for." She also recommends shopping often for the ingredients that inspire you and to "cook what you buy and use it up." Music's personal strategy may have broad influence as she is the food director of Bon Appetit magazine, and it has genuine credibility because she is a working mom.

The book is filled with plenty of advice to get you out of your chair and either onto the computer to order your food or into the market to search out what stimulates your appetite. She prefers small-batch cooking and suggests various items you should stock in your fridge, freezer and pantry, as well as on your countertop, so you will be ready to jump right into preparation of one of her fabulous, easy recipes.

Music describes six essential techniques for a roadmap to cooking just about anything. One of them is sauteing at moderate to high heat on the stovetop for a quick preparation. And the following recipe for seared scallops is a perfect example of a quick saute. It is layered with complementary flavors that underscore the unique, sweet scallop flavor.

I noticed Music says to remove the muscle from the scallop, but given the concern for simplicity it bears mention that most fish stores have already done that. She also recommends you use only dry scallops. You might ask what the difference is between wet and dry scallops. The answer is that if the scallops are not labeled "dry," they may have been treated with a liquid preservative. The added chemical will cook and imbue the scallops with an undesirable taste.

Brown butter infuses a toasty, rich flavor to this dish that is complemented with a splash of lemon and the nutty, mellow hazelnut. The result is a satisfying Seriously Simple main course. Music suggests a "spin" on the dish by substituting bay scallops for sea scallops and tanging up the flavor with parsley instead of chives. You can't go wrong either way.

Serve a simple vegetable rice pilaf alongside the scallops for a complete entree and a colorful counterpart. I like to serve a California chardonnay or a sparkling wine to accompany this dish.

Seared Scallops with Brown Butter, Hazelnuts and Chives

4 servings

1 pound large dry sea scallops

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