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Seriously Simple: Simple technique, serious flavor

By Diane Rossen Worthington, Tribune Content Agency on

As a promoter of simple cooking techniques with delicious results, I was very interested in Carla Lalli Music's book, "Where Cooking Begins: Uncomplicated Recipes to Make You A Great Cook" (Clarkson Potter, 2019).

Her philosophy is simple and straightforward: "Cooking begins when you feel the spark, when you know what you are hungry for." She also recommends shopping often for the ingredients that inspire you and to "cook what you buy and use it up." Music's personal strategy may have broad influence as she is the food director of Bon Appetit magazine, and it has genuine credibility because she is a working mom.

The book is filled with plenty of advice to get you out of your chair and either onto the computer to order your food or into the market to search out what stimulates your appetite. She prefers small-batch cooking and suggests various items you should stock in your fridge, freezer and pantry, as well as on your countertop, so you will be ready to jump right into preparation of one of her fabulous, easy recipes.

Music describes six essential techniques for a roadmap to cooking just about anything. One of them is sauteing at moderate to high heat on the stovetop for a quick preparation. And the following recipe for seared scallops is a perfect example of a quick saute. It is layered with complementary flavors that underscore the unique, sweet scallop flavor.

I noticed Music says to remove the muscle from the scallop, but given the concern for simplicity it bears mention that most fish stores have already done that. She also recommends you use only dry scallops. You might ask what the difference is between wet and dry scallops. The answer is that if the scallops are not labeled "dry," they may have been treated with a liquid preservative. The added chemical will cook and imbue the scallops with an undesirable taste.

Brown butter infuses a toasty, rich flavor to this dish that is complemented with a splash of lemon and the nutty, mellow hazelnut. The result is a satisfying Seriously Simple main course. Music suggests a "spin" on the dish by substituting bay scallops for sea scallops and tanging up the flavor with parsley instead of chives. You can't go wrong either way.

Serve a simple vegetable rice pilaf alongside the scallops for a complete entree and a colorful counterpart. I like to serve a California chardonnay or a sparkling wine to accompany this dish.

Seared Scallops with Brown Butter, Hazelnuts and Chives

4 servings

1 pound large dry sea scallops

Kosher salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 teaspoons grapeseed oil

 

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 cup raw hazelnuts, roughly chopped

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice, plus more if needed

Handful of chives, thinly sliced

1. Use your fingers to pull off the side muscle from the scallops and brush away any stray bits of shell or grit. Pat scallops dry with paper towels, then arrange on a large plate and season both sides with salt and pepper.

2. Heat a medium skillet, preferably stainless steel, over medium-high heat for a couple of minutes. When a drop of water dances on the surface of the skillet, add oil, which should immediately thin out and shimmer.

3. Carefully place scallops into pan, flat side down, and cook, undisturbed, until you can see that they're dark brown on the edge that's in contact with the pan, about 4 minutes. Using a pair of tongs, a thin spatula, or a metal spoon, turn scallops onto second side and cook until just barely cooked through, about 1 minute more. Transfer to a serving plate.

4. Pour off any residual oil from skillet and place over medium heat. Add butter and nuts to pan and cook, stirring often, until butter foams and then darkens, and nuts are lightly toasted, about 3 minutes.

5. Add lemon juice and cook, scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon, until sauce is slightly thickened, about 30 seconds. If sauce reduces too much or looks thick and greasy, stir in a couple tablespoons of water to loosen and re-emulsify.

6. Add chives and taste sauce; adjust with more lemon juice or salt as needed.

7. Spoon pan sauce and nuts over scallops to serve.

(Diane Rossen Worthington is an authority on new American cooking. She is the author of 18 cookbooks, including "Seriously Simple Parties," and a James Beard Award-winning radio show host. You can contact her at www.seriouslysimple.com.)


 

 

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