Spring lamb is a classic dish to serve for spring celebrations. I often do a whole leg of lamb, sometimes roasted or grilled, but for a smaller group I prefer to serve these juicy, savory chops. I prefer the rib chop, but the sauce would be equally good with the loin lamb chop, too, and the marinade is also great with halibut, shrimp, pork chops, or chicken.

Springtime peas are an obvious accompaniment, but you may find fresh peas a bit starchy. I use the petit pois peas, because they are always consistent and retain plenty of that garden-sweet flavor. If you prefer to use fresh peas, make sure to cook them quickly after buying them because they will turn starchy without much flavor if not used within a day. Make up the pea puree before grilling the lamb chops so you are ready to plate the meal.

Many people disagree about what the best-flavored lamb is. I am a fan of American lamb for its young sweet flavor, but there are many who treasure the stronger flavor of New Zealand or Australian lamb. I leave it up to you to decide which type you prefer.

This is lovely to serve at a small dinner party. Place some pea puree on the plate and then arrange the lamb chops on top, crisscrossed, for an elegant presentation. Begin with a tossed green salad with colorful vegetables. Serve the chops with roasted whole baby carrots or butternut squash. To drink, serve an Argentine malbec or a California merlot.

Grilled Lamb Chops with Spring Pea Puree

Serves 4 to 6

For the spring pea puree:

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 shallots, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 pound frozen peas, defrosted, or fresh-shelled peas

1 cup vegetable or chicken stock

2 tablespoons minced mint leaves,

Zest of one lemon

2 tablespoons creme fraiche

Salt and pepper

1. In a large saucepan, over medium heat, heat the oil. Saute the shallots for about 4 minutes, or until nicely softened. Add the garlic, and cook for 30 seconds while stirring to keep the garlic from browning. Add the peas, and stir to incorporate. Add the vegetable stock, and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook for about 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

2. Puree the peas with an immersion blender, leaving some texture and making sure that some peas remain whole. Stir in the mint, lemon zest and creme fraiche. Add salt and pepper, and season to taste. Reserve.

Advance Preparation: May be prepared up to 8 hours in advance through Step 2. Reheat gently.

For the lamb chop marinade:

1/4 cup Dijon grainy mustard

2 teaspoons soy sauce

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 shallot, minced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

1 teaspoon lemon zest

2 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

For the lamb:

8 to 12 (3/4-inch thick) rib lamb chops

Fresh mint leaves, for garnish

1. In a small bowl combine all of the marinade ingredients and mix together until blended. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Set aside.

2. Put the lamb chops in a large plastic lock-top bag and spoon in the marinade. Turn the lamb chops in the bag to coat them evenly. Close the bag and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 8 hours, turning once or twice.

3. Preheat a barbecue grill or an oiled grill pan to medium-high-heat. Remove the lamb chops from the marinade and grill for 4 to 7 minutes per side for medium rare, depending on thickness of the meat.

4. Spoon some pea puree on the center of the plate. Place the lamb chops on top of the puree, crisscrossing the ends for a pretty presentation. Garnish with mint, and serve immediately.

Advance preparation: May be prepared up to 8 hours in advance through Step 2, covered and refrigerated.

(Diane Rossen Worthington is an authority on new American cooking. She is the author of 18 cookbooks, including "Seriously Simple Parties," and a James Beard Award-winning radio show host. You can contact her at www.seriouslysimple.com.)