I am big on making stews. What are the techniques that will produce a rich flavored stew? In a nutshell, it is using good broth, browning the meat without crowding it (even if you need to do it in batches), letting the flavors develop through slow cooking, and preparing in advance so all of the tastes come together.

After college, I traveled throughout Europe and ended up in Vienna for a few weeks while waiting for a visa to Prague. It was November and very cold. I ordered a meat stew called goulash in a small family restaurant and then ordered it every day thereafter, trying to see what secret ingredients I could discern. Caraway seeds, red pepper and paprika were the key. I loved the dish's hearty flavor, and the finishing swirl of sour cream made it irresistible.

To give an authentic flavor to this savory stew, look for Hungarian sweet paprika in the spice section of well-stocked supermarkets or specialty-food stores. Unlike most mild American paprika, which adds little but color, this dark red powder has a rich, aromatic flavor that captures the essence of the dried and milled paprika peppers from which it is made. Hungarian paprika is produced in five grades based on piquancy and heat; the sweet type, called for in this recipe, is the most versatile and easiest to find.

This is perfect for a chilly night along with some really good country bread and a simple green salad. You could also ladle the stew onto a bed of egg noodles in shallow pasta bowls. And one more thing: If you love soup, you can easily transform this recipe into goulash soup by exchanging the 3 cups of broth for 8 cups of broth. The soup will feed six.

Goulash

Serves 4 to 6

3 tablespoons olive oil

4 medium leeks, cleaned, white and light green part only, finely chopped

2 teaspoons caraway seeds

1 red pepper, seeded and chopped

2 pounds beef stew meat, cut into small 1-inch cubes

3 tablespoons Hungarian sweet paprika

3 cups chicken, beef or vegetable broth

1 14 1/2-ounce can diced tomatoes with juice

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 Yukon gold potato, about 3/4 to 1 pound

3 carrots, peeled and sliced

1 parsnip, peeled and sliced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup finely chopped parsley

1/2 cup sour cream

1. In a large Dutch oven, over medium-high heat, warm the oil. Add the leeks and caraway seeds, and saute until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the red pepper and saute for 2 more minutes or until softened.

2. Add the beef pieces and paprika, and saute until the beef is evenly browned on all sides, about 7 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Increase the heat, add the broth and deglaze the pan by scraping up the brown bits to encourage a rich flavor. Reduce the heat to low, and simmer the soup, partially covered, for about 30 to 40 minutes, or until the meat is tender.

3. Stir in the tomatoes, garlic, potato, carrots, parsnip, salt and pepper. Partially cover, and simmer for another 20 minutes or until all the vegetables are tender. Add the parsley and taste for seasoning.

4. To serve, ladle the bowls and serve with a dollop of sour cream immediately.

Advance preparation: This may be prepared up to three days ahead, covered and refrigerated. Reheat gently and adjust seasonings. This may also be frozen up to two months ahead. Defrost, reheat gently and adjust seasonings.

(Diane Rossen Worthington is an authority on new American cooking. She is the author of 18 cookbooks, including "Seriously Simple Parties," and a James Beard Award-winning radio show host. You can contact her at www.seriouslysimple.com.)