Summer’s most iconic sandwich is a perfect dish the whole family will appreciate

Summer’s most iconic sandwich — voluptuous tomato slices heaped between slices of toasted, mayo-slicked white bread — seems a straightforward, simple pleasure. But don’t let its modest appearance fool you. This juicy, drippy stack actually pulls off a delicate culinary balancing act: The bread offers crunch that contrasts with the tomato’s softness; the richness of the mayo complements the acidity of the fruit; and the brilliant red slices at the center of it all are at once juicy, sweet, tart, meaty and savory.

Griddled Tomato Sandwiches

Serves 2

3/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon pepper

2 (4-inch) field or heirloom tomatoes, cored and sliced 3/4-inch thick

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons mayonnaise, divided

4 slices hearty white sandwich bread

1. Stir cream of tartar, salt, sugar, and pepper together in a small bowl. Sprinkle mixture on both sides of tomato slices. Spread 1 teaspoon mayonnaise on one side of each slice of bread.

2. Place two slices of bread, mayonnaise side down, in a 12-inch skillet. Cook over medium heat, moving bread if necessary for even browning, until underside is golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board griddled side up. Cook remaining two bread slices until underside is golden brown, about 30 seconds. Let cool until griddled side is crisp, about 2 minutes.

3. Evenly spread 2 teaspoons mayonnaise onto ungriddled sides of two slices of bread. Top with tomato slices in a single layer, cutting tomato slices to fit if necessary. Place remaining bread slices on top of tomatoes, griddled side up. Serve.

(For 25 years, home cooks have relied on America’s Test Kitchen for rigorously tested recipes developed by professional test cooks and vetted by 60,000 at-home recipe testers. The family of brands — which includes Cook’s Illustrated and Cook’s Country — offers reliable recipes for cooks of all skill levels. See more online at www.americastestkitchen.com/TCA.)