1/4 pound fresh oyster mushrooms, sliced

1/4 pound fresh chanterelle mushrooms, sliced

1/4 pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, sliced

1/4 pound regular white mushrooms, sliced

1 teaspoon soy sauce

2 tablespoons tawny port

1/2 cup chicken or veal stock

1/2 cup whipping cream (optional; see note)

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground pepper

For the pasta:

1 tablespoon salt

3/4 pound fresh semolina egg pasta like tagliatelle, linguine or angel hair

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese (optional garnish)

1. For the sauce: In a medium saute pan, heat butter and oil until foaming. Add shallots and all mushrooms and saute, stirring occasionally, 3 to 5 minutes or until slightly brown.

2. Add soy sauce, port, stock and cream, if desired. Simmer until slightly thickened, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and the pepper. Taste for seasoning.

3. For the pasta: Add salt to a large pot of boiling water. Then add pasta and cook over high heat until al dente, about 1 to 3 minutes. Drain well.

4. Toss hot pasta with mushroom sauce in saute pan and transfer to individual serving plates or shallow bowls. Serve immediately. Pass Parmesan cheese separately.

Note: Cream gives a richer consistency and taste but is not necessary.

(Diane Rossen Worthington is an authority on new American cooking. She is the author of 18 cookbooks, including "Seriously Simple Parties," and a James Beard Award-winning radio show host. You can contact her at www.seriouslysimple.com.)