ArcaMax

Sadly, these animals are the target of poachers. Some believe rhino horn to be an aphrodisiac and one horn can fetch nearly $200,000, making poaching lucrative. The five-year prison sentence for getting caught isn't enough to deter them, Grimsell said.

According to Virtuoso, the large international consortium of travel agents, South Africa is a top pick for travelers because it offers such diverse experiences. The dollar is also very strong against the South African rand, making a visit, once you get here, affordable. (Look for flight deals on British Airways.)

But for Jack Frater and his mom, Jo, this visit is more than wildlife, amazing as it is. Jo Frater explained that her husband and Jack's dad, died suddenly at age 41 when Jack was an infant and his older sisters were just two and three. James Frater had loved this place, she said, and they had visited many times.

That's why two years after he died, she scattered his ashes in one of his favorite spots here, promising to bring each of her three children here when they turned 13. Jack is the youngest; His middle sister opted for a stay at the Cape Town One&Only instead. "I wasn't going to force her," Jo Frater said, "maybe in the future."

Jack, meanwhile, is in his element -- engaging in a dung spitting contest with Grimsell, checking out the so-called "Toothpick Tree" (the Common Quarry), which can be a natural toothbrush in the bush and the Toilet Paper Tree (the Weeping Wattle) whose smooth leaves will do in a pinch. He likes the early morning hot chocolate and "sundowner" snacks and soft drink in the bush, the pool at the lodge and all of the tasty eats -- everything from grilled ostrich to Kudu filet to all kinds of tasty pastries. "I didn't think I'd reach heaven so young," he told his mom when he first saw their deluxe cottage with its outdoor shower.

And then there were the lions. It was just before sunset and we watched as one of the lionesses polished off the rest of the wildebeest. Afterward, we watched the lions walk within a few feet of our vehicle on their way to the nearest watering hole. We doubled back to see our first black-backed jackals and then spotted hyena munching on the lions' leftovers.

"The right place at the right time," agreed Grimsell. "It's very rare to see this."

"So exciting," added Jack. Yes, you have to get up very early. Yes, it can get boring looking for the animals, and they may be snoozing when you find them.

But then there is a one-for-the-memory-books experience -- an afternoon, Jack's mom hopes, that will help him connect to the dad he never knew.

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