Helsinki highlights

By Rick Steves, Tribune Content Agency on Sep 18, 2018

A more traditional touchstone of Finnish culture is the sauna. These days, with so many Finns affluent enough to have saunas in their homes (5.4 million Finns have 3.3 million saunas), some of the working-class spots I've long enjoyed have gone upscale. The chic Loyly complex is typical of the new trend, with its saunas finely crafted from warm woods, a restaurant serving fashionable Nordic cuisine, and a seaside terrace for lounging.

Helsinki seems designed to promote a sense of community, and when the weather warms, everyone takes full advantage. The city blooms with bikers, picnickers, runners, and walkers and cafés push their tables out to the sidewalk. Café Kappeli, an Old World oasis of pastry and relaxation, sits proudly at the harbor's edge. It's the perfect spot to sip a coffee while waiting for your ship, already savoring your Helsinki memories.

IF YOU VISIT...

SLEEPING: Hotel Rivoli Jardin has 55 rooms touched with classic Finnish comfort (splurge, www.rivoli.fi). Hotelli Finn provides tidy rooms with tiny baths in a wonderfully central location (budget, www.hotellifinn.fi).

EATING: The restored market hall called Vanha Kauppahalli is filled with fun eateries (located harborside on Etelaranta, tel. 09/3102-2550). Teatterin Deli and Bar, facing the Esplanade, offers moderately priced sandwiches, salads, and cocktails as well as terrace seating (Pohjoisesplanadi 2, tel. 09/6128-5000).

GETTING AROUND: In compact Helsinki, you can get around readily by foot, but the city's efficient tram system can save steps (www.hsl.fi).

TOURIST INFORMATION: www.visithelsinki.fi.

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(Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.)