Futuristic Oslo

By Rick Steves, Tribune Content Agency on Jun 12, 2018

North and inland from downtown is the former working-class district of Grunerlokka. Today's creative and bohemian set comes here for its convivial night scene, colorful eateries, and mellow cafés. And at the edge of Grunerlokka is a neighborhood that reflects Oslo's changing ethnic complexion: Today one in five of Oslo's citizens is not ethnically Norwegian. Like much of Europe, the people of Oslo are learning to share their city with a growing immigrant population.

Every time I visit, I'm amazed at some of the dramatic changes going on in Oslo. Sure, it's expensive (I've become comfortable getting my latte in a convenience-store ... in a box) -- but once you've got your room and food, you can enjoy an all-you-can-see smorgasbord of slick architecture, art, and Nordic ingenuity ... nearly for free.

IF YOU VISIT...

SLEEPING: Hotell Bondeheimen ("Farmer's Home") once housed the children of rural farmers attending school in Oslo. Today, its 145 rooms have all the modern comforts (splurge, www.bondeheimen.com). Located four blocks behind the Royal Palace, Ellingsens Pensjonat rents 24 bright, cheery rooms with fluffy down comforters (moderate, www.ellingsenspensjonat.no).

EATING: Grand Café has a seasonal menu, with high-end Nordic and international dishes (Karl Johans Gate 31, www.grandcafeoslo.no). Kaffistova serves simple, hearty, and typically Norwegian meals for a good price (Rosenkrantz Gate 8, www.kaffistova.no).

GETTING AROUND: Taxi fares are exorbitant. Use the excellent transit system, made up of buses, trams, ferries and a subway, instead.

TOURIST INFORMATION: www.visitoslo.com.

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(Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.)