The back streets of Bohemian Montmartre
When it opened in 1889, the lively nightclub seemed to sum up the pleasure-seeking belle epoque. Most nights, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec was among the customers, busily sketching as pretty cancan girls kicked their legs. He'd been hired to create the cabaret's advertising, and the colorful posters he made of cabaret singers, dancers, and club owners are now among the most recognizable works hanging in museums anywhere (including Paris' Musee d'Orsay).
By the way, at the foot of Montmartre is Paris's red light district, the infamous Pigalle (or "Pig Alley," as American soldiers nicknamed it during WWII). Ooh la la! If you venture here, stick to the bigger streets, hang on to your wallet, and exercise good judgment. Avoid the bars, where a 150 euro bottle of what would otherwise be cheap champagne comes with a friend.
Montmartre today retains some of the untamed appeal that drew fin-de-siecle bohemians and nonconformists to its winding lanes. As you wander, you may catch an echo of the free spirits who once partied, painted, and cancanned here.
IF YOU VISIT...
SLEEPING: Le Relais Montmartre has 26 cozy rooms with plenty of amenities (splurge, www.relaismontmartre.fr). Hotel Basss offers snappy modern rooms with splashes of color (moderate, www.hotel-basss.com).
EATING: The raucous La Fourmi cafe/bar has affordable lunches and generous cheese plates (74 Rue des Martyrs, tel. 01 42 64 70 35). Autour de Midi et Minuit is a classic French bistro sitting on top of a jazz cellar (11 Rue Lepic, tel. 01 55 79 16 48).
GETTING AROUND: Montmartre is a hill. To get to the top without having to climb, take the funicular that rides up to Sacre-Coeur Basilica, or catch the Montmartrobus city bus that runs from the Pigalle Metro stop.
TOURIST INFORMATION: www.parisinfo.com.
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(Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.)
(c)2016 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.
