Ancient Rome: The things that were Caesar's
The Pantheon survived so well because it's been in continuous use for more than 2,000 years. It went almost directly from being a pagan temple to being a Christian church.
Even if built to exalt the gods, the Pantheon is just as much a symbol of Roman human greatness. The massive, 40-foot granite columns that support its portico are so huge, it takes four tourists to hug one. Entering here (it's free), you feel the power and ambition that fueled the Empire.
Inside, you stand in a cavernous rotunda, a testament to Roman engineering. The subtle interior illumination is defined by the oculus, the opening at the top of the dome and the only source of light. (Once a year, on Pentecost Sunday, tens of thousands of rose petals flutter through the opening in the traditional "rain of red roses.")
The dome's dimensions are classic -- based on a perfect circle, as wide as it is tall (140 feet) -- and its construction is ingenious. It's made of poured concrete, which gets thinner and lighter with height -- the highest part is made with pumice, an airy volcanic stone.
This was the largest dome anywhere until the Renaissance. Only then did Brunelleschi jump-start that new artistic era by borrowing some of Pantheon's features for his cathedral dome in Florence.
The wonder of ancient Rome is not how much of it has disappeared, but how much still exists. For nearly 2,000 years, the Colosseum, Forum and Pantheon have been the iconic symbols of the Eternal City. After doing the Caesar Shuffle, you'll give an unreserved thumbs-up to Rome's enduring grandeur.
IF YOU VISIT...
SLEEPING: Antica Locanda Hotel is a quiet gem with romantically rustic rooms not far from the Colosseum (moderate, www.anticalocandaroma.it). Hotel Paba is a cozy throwback just two blocks from the Forum (moderate, www.hotelpaba.com).
EATING: Just behind the Colosseum, the simple and rustic Alle Carrette Pizzeria serves fantastic pizza (budget, Vicolo delle Carrette 14, tel. 06-679-2770). A splurge near the Pantheon, Ristorante da Fortunato has fresh flowers on the table and black-tied waiters (splurge, Via del Pantheon 55, tel. 06-679-2788).
GETTING AROUND: Ancient Rome's sights are manageable on foot, and Rome's public transportation system is cheap and efficient. Taxis are also a smart option.
TOURIST INFORMATION: www.turismoroma.it.
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(Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.)
(c)2016 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.
