Budapest: City of Paradox
But Budapest still has one of Eastern Europe's best sights remembering the Red old days. Instead of disposing of its statues of Stalin, Lenin, and their local counterparts, an entrepreneur collected them into an open-air museum. The result is Memento Park, located at the city's edge, boasting an entertaining jumble of communist all-stars. In a kind of demagogue's hell, they're left with no one to preach to but each other.
Even with the tumultuous detours of the 20th century, Budapest has retained a keen knack for good living. The city's once-vibrant cafe culture has made a strong comeback (the communists closed down the cafes, fearing a dissident breeding-ground). But now the old coffee shops are being restored, with red-velvet chairs and doodad-decorated columns dripping with Habsburgian nostalgia.
You can also relax with a splish-splash in one of the city's famous thermal baths. Of two dozen or so traditional baths, Szechenyi is the most accessible and fun place to take the plunge. Magyars of all shapes and sizes squeeze themselves into tiny swimsuits and strut their stuff. You can paddle in the aristocratic outdoor pool, soak in indoor thermal baths, or steam in the sauna all day for less than $20.
The city boasts marvelous vistas as well. Ride the cute Buda funicular up to Castle Hill for panoramic views from the remaining castle ramparts. Or cap a day of sightseeing with an evening cruise on the blue Danube. As the sun goes down, an ensemble of icons grabs your attention: the mighty bridges linking Buda and Pest, the stubborn citadel standing tall on Buda's hill, and monuments honoring a hard-earned freedom. Budapest, a city of nuance and paradox, has survived its turbulent history beautifully.
IF YOU VISIT...
SLEEPING: Gerloczy Rooms is the best spot in central Budapest for affordable elegance, with an old spiral-staircase atrium and attached cafe (splurge, www.gerloczy.com). Kalvin-Haz has 36 big rooms with a nice classic feel (moderate, www.kalvinhouse.hu).
EATING: Find Belvarosi Lugas Etterem for a cozy dining space serving up good Hungarian food (Bajcsy-Zsilinszky ut 15, tel. 1/302-5393). For sit-in or takeaway, Elso Pesti Reteshaz is the place to go for your strudel fix (full food menu available, Oktober 6 utca 22, tel. 1/428-0134).
GETTING AROUND: Budapest sprawls. Get comfortable with the excellent public transportation system (www.bkv.hu).
TOURIST INFORMATION: www.budapestinfo.hu.
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(Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.)
(c)2015 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.
