4. Put steak on the 250-degree grill for indirect cooking (not over the heat source). Place a meat thermometer in the thickest part of the steak away from the bone. Cover the grill and cook until the internal temperature of the steak is 110 degrees, 45 to 60 minutes (time will depend on temperature of the meat when it goes on the grill, maintaining a steady grill temperature, the outside temperature and the thickness of the meat).

5. Remove steak to the rack set over a baking pan. Let rest at room temperature at least 10 minutes or up to 1 hour.

6. Shortly before serving, preheat the gas grill to hot or add more coals to the charcoal grill to get it very hot. Temperature should be 500 degrees or more. Add more wood chips if desired.

7. Set the steak directly over the heat source on the hot grill. Cover the grill. Cook the steak, without turning until seared and very nicely grill marked on one side, 4 to 5 minutes. Carefully flip the steak and cook to sear the other side, 3 to 5 minutes more. The internal temperature of the steak should be 125 degrees for rare and 130 degrees for medium-rare.

8. Transfer steak to a cutting board. Top with a pat of the butter, if desired.

9. To carve the steak, use a very sharp knife to cut away the bone. Then cut the steak crosswise into thin strips. Serve sprinkled with herbs.

Three Pepper Steak Salt

Makes about 1/3 cup

1 tablespoon each: black peppercorns, grains of paradise (or more black pepper)

2 tablespoons coarse (kosher) salt

...continued