In 2012, Bestia opened in downtown Los Angeles and became an instant hit, foreshadowing its bustling restaurant scene today. The first time I ate there I knew I would return.

Bestia serves my kind of food: rustic Italian. So many dishes I tried were truly memorable. Pastas are light, yet full of inventive combinations such as pork ragu with speck, cabbage and caraway seeds; and I have never forgotten the meatballs with ricotta, tomato, greens and preserved lemon. Bursting with creative seasonings, the dishes at Bestia are homey and restaurant quality at the same time.

The authors of "Bestia: Italian Recipes Created in the Heart of L.A." (Ten Speed Press) believe in layering flavors in all of their dishes, and it shows on every page. Chapters include recipes for salads, main dishes, desserts and, of course, something essential for holiday meals and simple suppers alike: side dishes.

Seasoned sides that can accompany main courses are challenging to create. Here is a recipe that is as simple as it gets and can accompany many dishes. All you have to do is toss some sweet spring peas in a hot pan, pile on the fresh herbs, and eat. Serve it alongside grilled lamb chops or as a warm salad. There's a healthy amount of mint in the recipe. Resist the urge to hold back -- the dish needs it.

Blistered Snap Peas with Mint

Serves 4 as a side

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 cloves garlic, smashed

1 sprig thyme

3 cups snap peas, trimmed and strings removed

1/4 cup packed fresh mint leaves

1 teaspoon Maldon or other flaky sea salt

Freshly grated zest of 1/4 lemon

1. Preheat a cast-iron frying pan or saute pan over very high heat. Add the olive oil and, when shimmering, add the garlic and thyme. Saute until the garlic is fragrant and begins to brown, about 1 minute.

2. Add the snap peas to the pan and cook, tossing occasionally, until the skins are blistered and browned in spots but the pods remain crisp, about 3 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, line a plate with paper towels.

4. Add the mint to the pan, toss and cook until wilted; then transfer the whole mix to the prepared plate.

5. Discard the garlic cloves and thyme sprig. Pile the peas and mint in a bowl, and toss with the salt. Garnish with the lemon zest, and serve.

Art reprinted with permission from "Bestia: Italian Recipes Created in the Heart of L.A." (Ten Speed Press) by Ori Menashe, Genevieve Gergis and Lesley Suter.

(Diane Rossen Worthington is an authority on new American cooking. She is the author of 18 cookbooks, including "Seriously Simple Parties," and a James Beard Award-winning radio show host. You can contact her at www.seriouslysimple.com.)