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The Kitchn: This French cheese puff is the best app you're not making

By Meghan Splawn on

TheKitchn.com

Do you love cheese and light, fluffy bread? That's a silly question. Cheesy bread is one of the most satisfying combinations we know, especially when it's paired with a tall glass of something crisp and bubbly. In which case, you should really meet gougeres, the French cheese puff that you should be serving for any appetizer-fueled happy hour ("Appy Hour," as we like to call it). It is hard to overstate how delicious and versatile gougeres are, but in addition to their flavor appeal, these cheese puffs require only a few kitchen staples and they can be made ahead.

First, what are gougeres?

Gougeres are made from the French pastry dough pate a choux, which is also responsible for cream puffs and eclairs. Pate a choux dough is made by cooking water and butter with flour to make a paste, then beating whole eggs into the paste. For gougeres, shredded cheese is folded into the paste. The dough is piped or scooped onto parchment paper and then baked. In the oven it steams and cracks a bit, creating a little puff (literally) with a hollow interior.

Need more convincing? Here are four reasons you should be serving gougeres as appetizers at your next happy hour.

1. Gougeres are delicious. Gougeres are like next-level cheese puffs. (Think: all the glory of bread and cheese in a single bite that is both satisfying and light.) Aromatic with cheese and oh-so-tender, gougeres are perfect for eating with Champagne, but also familiar enough to feel homey paired with a weeknight beer.

2. Gougeres are easy to make -- and customizable. If you can cook mashed potatoes, you can make gougeres. You melt a little butter in water, beat in some flour, and cook until a paste forms. Then you beat the eggs into that paste. The dough can either be piped or scooped out onto a baking sheet and, once cooked, you've got hot and steamy cheese puffs.

You can add herbs or dry spices to the dough, but these are upgrades on an already delicious bite. You can swap out the cheese or swap the water for milk, but gougeres are best with just five simple ingredients.

3. Gougeres can be made ahead. In under an hour you can fill your freezer with two-dozen or more ready-to-bake gougeres on any given weekend. When unexpected guests arrive, heat the oven and bake off as many (or as few) as you need. Having these seemingly fancy cheese puffs stashed in the freezer will make you feel like a better host, even just knowing they are there.

4. Gougeres are versatile. Because gougeres bake up hollow, they are a glorious vehicle for more cheese, dips, cream fillings, or even hearty options like chicken or egg salad. Cut them in half and they become sliders for ham, roast beef, or even salumi. You could even serve a tiny salad course inside a gougere. Now, go forth and make gougeres.

Cheese Gougeres

Recipe by Emma Christensen

Makes 24 gougeres

1 cup water

8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into several pieces

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon ground mustard (optional)

1 cup all-purpose flour

4 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 1/2 cups grated cheese (6 ounces), such as Gruyere or Parmesan

Equipment:

 

2- to 4-quart saucepan

Long-handled wooden spoon

Stand mixer (optional)

Baking sheets

Silicone baking mats or parchment paper

Arrange two racks to divide the oven into thirds and heat to 450 F. Line two baking sheets with silicone baking mats or parchment paper; set aside.

Place the water, butter, salt and mustard, if using, in a 2- to 4-quart saucepan and bring to a rolling boil over medium-high heat, stirring to melt the butter.

Remove the pan from heat and add the flour all at once. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture comes together and resembles mashed potatoes.

Return the pan to medium-low heat and stir for 3 to 5 minutes to dry out the dough. The dough is ready when it smells nutty, glistens, and is thick enough to hold a spoon upright. A film of starch on the bottom of the pan is normal.

Transfer the dough to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. (Alternatively, use an electric hand mixer or beat by hand with a stiff spatula.) Beat the dough on medium-low speed until it stops steaming and is just warm to the touch, about 1 minute.

Continue beating and add the eggs in four additions. Wait for each addition to be absorbed and for the dough to smooth out before adding the next. Scrape down the sides of the bowl if needed between additions. In the end, the dough should come together in a very smooth, creamy batter. Beat in the cheese.

Scoop rounded tablespoons of dough onto the baking sheets, spacing the about 1-inch apart.

Bake the gougeres at high heat for 5 minutes.

Reduce the heat to 350 F. Bake until puffed, deep golden-brown, and dry to the touch (the cheese may still be bubbling a bit), rotating the sheets between racks and from front to back halfway through baking, 20 to 25 minutes more. The finished gougeres will feel light and hollow when picked up.

Transfer the baking sheets to a cooling rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Recipe notes: Leftovers can be stored in the refrigerator for up to five days or frozen for up to three months. Re-crisp in a warm oven before serving.

To make ahead, scoop rounded tablespoons of dough onto the lined baking sheet as close together as possible without touching. Cover loosely with plastic wrap. Freeze until solid, then transfer to an airtight container or a zip-top bag and freeze for up to two months.

Make the gougeres any size that appeals to you. Teaspoon scoops are a fun party snack or soup topper, while double-sized gougeres are nice for making sandwiches or as part of a brunch spread.

(Meghan Splawn is associate food editor for TheKitchn.com, a nationally known blog for people who love food and home cooking. Submit any comments or questions to editorial@thekitchn.com.)


 

 

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