3. Meanwhile, bring a pot of water to a boil over high heat. Cut a small X in the stem end of each tomato. Drop the tomatoes into the boiling water and blanch them for about 20 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer them to a colander to drain. When cool enough to handle, remove and discard the skin from the tomatoes, remove the core and coarsely chop the flesh.

4. Add the tomatoes to the stockpot, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 5 minutes. Turn the heat to high, add the vegetable stock, and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.

5. Using a food processor or blender and working in batches or using a handheld immersion blender, puree the soup until smooth. Return the soup to the pot, add the cream (if using), and simmer over low heat for about 10 minutes. If the soup is too thin or watery, simmer for about another 10 minutes, until slightly thickened. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if needed.

6. Ladle the soup into mugs or bowls and top each with 2 to 4 croutons or a half-slice of open-faced crouton, if you prefer. Garnish with the basil or parsley and serve.

TO GO: Prepare the croutons, but instead of adding the basil and cheese and broiling them, place them on a baking sheet and cover with plastic wrap. Pack the basil and cheese separately. At the party, broil the croutons with the cheese and sprinkle with the basil or parsley just before serving with the soup.

GRILLED CHEESE CROUTONS

6 1/2- to 3/4-inch bread slices, white, sourdough or any variety you like

Olive oil spray

6 fresh basil leaves, optional

1 cup freshly grated sharp cheddar, Parmesan, Gruyere or other hard cheese

1. Preheat the broiler.

2. Arrange the bread slices in a single layer on a baking sheet. Lightly spray the top of each slice with olive oil and broil for about 1 1/2 minutes, or until golden brown.

3. Remove from the oven, flip the bread, and lightly spray the other side with oil. Top each slice with a basil leaf, if available, and sprinkle with an equal amount of cheese. Broil until the cheese is melted and bubbling, watching carefully that the cheese does not burn.

4. Sandwich two pieces of bread together, pressing them down, and cut each sandwich into 9 small grilled cheese croutons. You can also make these larger, if you prefer.

(Diane Rossen Worthington is an authority on new American cooking. She is the author of 18 cookbooks, including "Seriously Simple Parties," and a James Beard Award-winning radio show host. You can contact her at www.seriouslysimple.com.)