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My favorite part about Thanksgiving is always the desserts. Pumpkin pie and pecan pie are my favorites, but squash pie is my personal specialty. However, all these Thanksgiving pies are very much American specialties. You can't really find pie as popular anywhere else in the world.

The first Americans, the pilgrims, who celebrated the holiday did not automatically think to make pies out of the land's native squashes and pumpkins. They were more apt to eat meat pies for a main dish and custards for dessert, as was the tradition in Europe. But because of scarcity, they had to use the plentiful crops for something. Some bright individual combined pumpkins, pie and custard and came up with the basics for the recipes we follow today. I sincerely thank that individual.

There's just something special about fall and winter squashes, their unique shapes and earthy flavors, that makes me want to cook and bake with them. Since I prefer the more mellow flavor of squash to pumpkin, I use acorn or butternut squash. Sometimes I steam or roast them for this recipe, but canned squash or pumpkin works perfectly well. And since it's synonymous with the holiday, it's the only time I use a can all year.

This recipe is very quick and easy. The squash custard is whipped in one bowl. A machine isn't even required. So, do not buy a pumpkin pie from the bakery or frozen section of the grocery store. And whatever you do, don't buy frozen pie crust either. This pie with its cornmeal crust is much more unique than anything available in stores. Serve with a dollop of fresh whipped cream, and your guests will be delightedly pleased with Thanksgiving dessert.

Squash and Honey Pie

Yield: 8 to 10 slices

5 large eggs

1/2 cup heavy cream

1 14 1/2-ounce can squash puree

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