Like wearing white, it’s OK to grill after Labor Day

Don’t put away those grills just yet! There’s still time to enjoy the fiery taste of grilled meals before cool temps are here to stay.

Grilling the chicken is a no-brainer here, but grilling a humble half head of cabbage really transforms the veggie from squeaky and sulfurous to sweet and tender.

Grilled Chicken and Cabbage with Lemony Browned Butter Dressing

Serves 4

4 (6- to 8-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts, trimmed

1 3/4 teaspoons table salt, divided

3/4 teaspoon pepper, divided

1/2 head green cabbage, cut into 8 wedges through core

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 lemons, halved, plus 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest

8 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup sliced almonds

2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and patted dry

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1. Pat chicken dry and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Brush cabbage all over with oil and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt and remaining 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Grill chicken, cabbage, and lemon halves over hot fire (covered if using gas) until cabbage is charred and chicken registers 160 degrees, 6 to 12 minutes, flipping chicken and cabbage halfway through grilling. Transfer to a cutting board and tent with foil.

2. Squeeze lemons to yield 3 tablespoons juice. Melt butter in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add almonds and capers and cook, stirring frequently, until butter is deep golden brown and almonds are toasted, 4 to 6 minutes. Off heat, carefully stir in lemon zest and juice and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, scraping up any browned bits.

3. Arrange cabbage on a serving platter. Slice chicken 1/2 inch thick and arrange over cabbage. Drizzle with sauce and sprinkle with parsley. Serve.

(For 25 years, home cooks have relied on America’s Test Kitchen for rigorously tested recipes developed by professional test cooks and vetted by 60,000 at-home recipe testers. The family of brands — which includes Cook’s Illustrated and Cook’s Country — offers reliable recipes for cooks of all skill levels. See more online at www.americastestkitchen.com/TCA.)