1 large bay leaf

2 (14.5-ounce) cans diced tomatoes

Salt and ground black pepper

2 tablespoons fresh parsley leaves, chopped

1. Heat the olive oil over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add the onion, red pepper, carrot and celery. Reduce the heat to low, cover and cook until vegetables soften, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic, oregano, thyme, fennel seeds and red pepper flakes; saute until fragrant, about 1 minute.

2. Add the wine and raise heat to high. Boil the wine until it reduces by half, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the reserved canned clam juices, 3 bottles clam juice, potatoes and the bay leaf. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer until the potatoes are almost tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Using a wooden spoon, smash a few potatoes against the side of the pot. Simmer to release potato starch, about 2 minutes.

3. Add the tomatoes, bring back to a simmer, and cook for 5 minutes. Off heat, stir in the reserved chopped clams and season with salt and pepper to taste; discard the bay leaf. (Chowder can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to two days. Warm over low heat until hot.) Stir in parsley and ladle the chowder into individual bowls. Serve immediately.

(James Moore has been a cooking enthusiast since childhood and started his blog, Cook Like James, as a way to share favorite recipes, restaurants and cookbooks with friends and family. One for the Table is Amy Ephron's online magazine that specializes in food, politics and love. www.oneforthetable.com.)