Deviled eggs, the beloved American classic, are constantly being reinvented. They can be far from ordinary when sophisticated ingredients are added. In fact, I've noticed that elegant appetizer buffets often serve a platter of deviled eggs, and they always seem to be the first to go. I am a big fan of them for their familiar, comforting flavor.

Below, you'll find a basic recipe for deviled eggs has lots of spiced-up variations, plus there's a recipe for egg salad. And these recipes can easily be doubled or tripled.

The key to delicious deviled eggs or egg salad is in the selecting and cooking of the eggs. Purchase your eggs a week ahead of cooking so they will be mature and easier to peel. They will also be less likely to crack while cooking. When you're cooking the eggs, don't boil them and don't cook them too long. These strategies will avoid tough eggs and those unappetizing gray circles around the yolks.

Here are some other tips:

1. Use extra-large eggs, at room temperature. I always add a couple of extra eggs so that if one does crack while cooking, I have an extra one ready to go.

2. Make sure to use a large pan so that the eggs aren't crowded.

3. Cool the eggs under cold running water.

4. Don't peel the eggs until right before preparing.

5. Make sure the deviled eggs are refrigerated until just before serving so they stay fresh.

I love to serve egg salad on Belgian endive leaves or in baby gem small leaves that look like little cups. Either way, serve on a pretty platter garnished with greens and baby tomatoes. Here are a few other tasty combinations to mix with mashed yolks or into egg salad:

--Chopped smoked salmon, chives, capers, mayonnaise and lemon juice

--Minced shallots, mayonnaise and snipped dill, topped with caviar.

--Mayonnaise, mango chutney and curry powder

--Pesto, mayonnaise and chopped bay shrimp

--Yogurt, sour cream, chopped cucumber, and capers, garnished with watercress

--Saffron mayonnaise with chopped Italian parsley

Deviled Eggs or Egg Salad

Serves 6 for Deviled Eggs

Serves 3 for Egg Salad

6 extra-large eggs

3 tablespoons mayonnaise

Pinch dry mustard

1/4 teaspoon salt

Pinch white pepper

1 tablespoon finely chopped chives

Optional garnish:

Pinch of smoked paprika

1 tablespoon finely chopped chives

Lettuce or Belgian endive leaves (for the egg salad)

Cooking the eggs:

1. Place the eggs in a pan and cover with cold water. Bring just to a rolling boil.

2. As soon as the water reaches a rolling boil, turn off the heat and cover for 10 minutes.

3. Put the eggs in a strainer and run cold water over them. Crack them all over to peel them and refrigerate until chilled.

For the deviled eggs:

1. Slice the cooled, peeled eggs lengthwise and scoop out the egg yolks into a small mixing bowl.

2. Mash the yolks with a fork and add the mayonnaise, mustard, salt and pepper and chives until well blended and taste for seasoning.

3. Spoon or pipe the yolks back into the egg whites, and garnish with paprika and chives.

4. Place in a storage container, cover and refrigerate at least an hour and up to overnight before serving.

For the egg salad:

1. Slice the eggs into small dice with an egg slicer or with a knife and place in a mixing bowl.

2. Add the mayonnaise, mustard, salt pepper and chives and mix until well blended. Taste for seasoning.

3. Serve the egg salad on lettuce or Belgian endive leaves, and garnish with paprika and chives.

(Diane Rossen Worthington is an authority on new American cooking. She is the author of 18 cookbooks, including "Seriously Simple Parties," and a James Beard Award-winning radio show host. You can contact her at www.seriouslysimple.com.)