ArcaMax

At this time of year, I sometimes feel caught between the seasons as a chef. Many of the fresh young ingredients of springtime are still around, inviting me to celebrate their delicacy, from asparagus to peas, spring lamb to tender chickens. But summer is also coming closer, and I'm tempted to start cooking with all of its signature items -- especially eggplant, zucchini and garden herbs such as basil.

To tell you the truth, nowadays, any cook, whether in a restaurant or a home kitchen, can get all of those ingredients at any time of year from anywhere in the world. But as much as possible, I prefer to cook with whatever vegetables and fruits are in season and grown locally, especially using organic farming methods. It's just the responsible thing to do -- not to mention the fact that your food is likely to taste better and be more nutritious, too. And I'll add other ingredients that are grown, harvested or fished responsibly or humanely and shipped to my local markets or suppliers.

That's one of the reasons why salmon is a perfect main course to feature on your table at this time of year. For me, its robust flavor and delicate texture perfectly bridge the seasons. and it's also wonderful eaten either hot or cold, so you can enjoy it whatever the weather is like. Better still, right now is the beginning of the season for the Alaskan king salmon, which, being caught in the wild, is considered an environmentally responsible seafood choice -- with none of the concerns we've been hearing lately about pollution or health issues related to some farm-raised salmon.

Wild king salmon, also called Chinook salmon, is one of the richest and most flavorful varieties of the fish, high in heart-healthy omega-3 oils. To give it a fresh summery flavor, I like to bake it in a crust of breadcrumbs and fresh basil puree, which also helps to seal in the fish's moisture and provides a good crunchy contrast to its texture. Cooking it in the oven also ensures that all the fish cooks uniformly and is done at the same time, ready to serve.

While the salmon is cooking, I'm also making a ragout of vegetables that becomes its sauce. I combine a medley of early summer produce, cut into small dices that turn tender during half an hour or so of simmering, blending their flavors while retaining their shapes and colors.

The sauce is a perfect choice for another reason, too. Being composed almost entirely of vegetables, with just a touch of olive oil, it's incredibly light and healthful -- just the thing you want to eat at this time of year, when you're thinking about getting back into your swimsuit!

BASIL-CRUSTED SALMON WITH TOMATO-EGGPLANT FONDUE

TOMATO-EGGPLANT FONDUE:

2 ounces extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup diced eggplant

1/2 cup diced zucchini

1/2 cup diced yellow summer squash

1/2 cup diced red bell pepper

1/2 cup diced fennel bulb

2 tablespoons minced garlic

1/4 cup tomato paste

1/2 cup dry white wine

3 cups good-quality tomato juice

1 tablespoon sugar

1/4 cup chopped parsley

1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

BASIL-CRUSTED SALMON:

4 ounces fresh basil leaves

2 ounces baby spinach leaves

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon minced garlic

4 ounces plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

4 skinless salmon fillets, each about 6 ounces

2 ounces panko (Japanese-style breadcrumbs)

First, start the Tomato-Eggplant Fondue. In a medium saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the eggplant, zucchini, squash, bell pepper and fennel and saute, stirring frequently, just until they turn glossy, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and saute until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until it darkens slightly in color and smells fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the wine, bring it to a brisk simmer and cook until it reduces by half, about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomato juice and sugar, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are tender and a thick sauce has formed, about 30 minutes, adding the herbs for the last 10 minutes of cooking.

While the sauce simmers, prepare the Basil-Crusted Salmon.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.

Meanwhile, in a blender, put the basil, spinach, lemon juice, garlic, 4 ounces of the oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Blend until smooth. Set aside.

In an ovenproof saute pan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat. Add the salmon fillets and cook until their undersides are golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. With a spatula, carefully turn the fillets over. Remove the pan from the heat. Spread the tops of the fillets with the basil puree and then spoon the panko (breadcrumbs) on top, pressing down gently to help them adhere.

Transfer the pan to the oven and roast until the salmon is cooked through and the breadcrumbs are golden, about 10 minutes more. To test for doneness, use the tip of a small, sharp knife to separate the flakes and check the center of one fillet to see if it is cooked through but still moist at the center; if not, cook a little longer.

Taste the Tomato-Eggplant Fondue and adjust its seasonings to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the fondue onto individual serving plates and, with a spatula, transfer a salmon fillet to each plate, placing it on top of the sauce. Serve immediately. (Store any leftovers in the refrigerator, and serve the salmon and sauce cold the next day, drizzled with a little olive oil and lemon juice.)