PIZZA FOR EASTER BRUNCH
By Wolfgang Puck, Tribune Media Services
If you're trying to think of something different but perfect to serve
for Easter brunch this year, or for brunch any time you want to
surprise your guests, let me suggest pizza. Pizza? I know you're
probably raising your eyebrows, even though, like me, you may be one
of the millions of people who've secretly enjoyed leftover pizza for
breakfast. But I'm not talking here about the usual pizza with tomato
sauce, cheese, and maybe pepperoni. I mean a pizza that is really
ideal for a weekend morning meal. There's nothing wrong with the
Italian classics, of course. But ever since 1982, when I opened my
first Spago with its two wood-burning pizza ovens, I've been trying to
expand the way people think about pizza. We started making what came
to be known as California-style gourmet pizzas, with toppings like
fresh duck sausage, Santa Barbara shrimps, and smoked salmon. So it
wasn't really a big leap to start thinking about a breakfast pizza.
And we finally came up with one when we started a restaurant that
would serve breakfast: Postrio, in the Prescott Hotel on San
Francisco's Union Square. When you think about it, pizza makes an
ideal breakfast item. There's the dough, nothing more than good,
yeasty, crunchy-crusted, fresh-baked bread. The dough recipe I share
with you here is easy, and you can prepare it up to a couple of days
ahead and have it ready in the refrigerator. For convenience, you can
also shape and partially bake the pizza dough in advance, up to but
not including the point at which you top it. Next come scrambled eggs.
Moist and creamy, they replace the pizza's sauce. I make sure to
undercook them, so that they finish in the oven as the pizza finishes
baking. Cheese, of course, is a must for pizza, and it also goes so
well with eggs. I like a mix of good melting cheeses, mozzarella and
Fontina; but feel free to substitute your own favorites. Finally comes
the smoked salmon. Look for good-quality smoked fish from a deli or
well-stocked market. Thinly sliced and draped over the pizza fresh
from the oven, a little goes a long way. If you want an extra-special
touch, look for a small jar of salmon roe, adding a small spoonful to
each slice before serving. Of course, once you've mastered your first
brunch pizza, you can start dreaming up more of your own. Mix some
crispy bacon, crumbled sausage, roasted peppers, or caramelized onions
with the eggs, for example. Or, if you can't eat pizza dough this
week, turn off the oven, scramble the eggs with the cheese, spread
them on a matzo, and top with the salmon for a Spago-style Passover
brunch! PIZZA WITH SCRAMBLED EGGS AND SMOKED SALMON Serves 2 6 ounces
Pizza Dough (recipe follows) 1 tablespoon Chili-Garlic Oil (recipe
follows) 4 large eggs 1/4 cup milk Kosher salt Freshly ground black
pepper 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon unsalted
butter 1/4 cup shredded mozzarella cheese 1/4 cup shredded Fontina
cheese 2 ounces thinly sliced smoked salmon 1 teaspoon chopped fresh
chives Place a pizza stone on the middle rack of the oven. Preheat the
oven to 500 degrees F. On a pizza peel or rimless cookie sheet dusted
with flour or semolina, stretch the dough into an 8-inch round. Brush
with Chili-Garlic Oil. Slide onto the stone and bake until the bottom
just starts turning golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the
oven. In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, and salt and pepper to
taste. Heat a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the olive
oil and butter. When the butter melts, add the egg mixture and cook,
stirring with a wooden spoon, until slightly set but still very moist,
about 4 minutes. Immediately spread the eggs on the pizza, leaving a
1/2-inch border. Spread the cheeses on top. Return to the oven and
cook just until the cheese bubbles, about 5 minutes. Use the peel or
cookie sheet to transfer to a cutting board. Arrange the smoked salmon
on top. With a large, heavy knife, cut into wedges. Garnish with
chives. Serve immediately. PIZZA DOUGH Makes 4 6-ounce balls 1 packet
active dry yeast 1-1/2 cups warm water (105 degrees F to 115 degrees
F) 1 tablespoon honey 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus
additional for brushing the pizza crusts 3 cups all-purpose flour 1
teaspoon salt In a small bowl, dissolve the yeast in the water. Add
the honey and stir together. Let sit for 2 or 3 minutes, or until the
water is cloudy. Stir in the olive oil. In a food processor, combine
the flour and salt. Add the yeast mixture and process until the
mixture forms a ball. Turn out onto a clean, lightly oiled bowl or
tray, cover loosely with a damp towel, and leave at cool room
temperature until almost doubled, about 2 hours. Divide the dough into
4 equal portions. Work each into a ball by pulling downward all around
its sides and tucking the pulled-down dough underneath, repeating 4 or
5 times. Then, on a smooth, unfloured surface, roll under your palm
until the top feels smooth and firm, about 1 minute. Transfer to a
clean tray, cover with a damp towel, and let rest for 1 hour. At this
point, the dough may be used or wrapped in plastic and refrigerated
for up to 2 days. CHILI-GARLIC OIL Makes about 2 cups 1 whole head
garlic, cloves separated and peeled 2 cups extra-virgin olive oil 1
tablespoon red pepper flakes In a small saucepan, combine the garlic
and oil. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat and
simmer gently until the garlic begins to brown, 10 to 15 minutes. (Do
not let the garlic get too brown or the oil will taste bitter.) Remove
from the heat and cool to room temperature. Add the red pepper flakes
and infuse for at least 2 hours. Strain through a sieve into a clean
glass container. Refrigerate, covered, for up to 2 weeks.
This news arrived on: 03/19/2008
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