MAKING A HUMBLE SOUP SPECIAL
By Wolfgang Puck, Tribune Media Services
Potato soup sounds to most people like one of the humblest dishes you
could imagine. After all, throughout the Western world -- from the
Americas, where they were indigenous in the ancient cultures of Peru
and Chile, to Europe, where they were first brought home by Spanish
conquistadors in the middle of the 16th century -- potatoes are a
literally down-to-earth staple of so many different cuisines. One
country whose cooking is very closely associated with potatoes is
Ireland, where Sir Walter Raleigh first introduced the tubers in 1589.
So it makes perfect and delicious sense to enjoy a bowl of potato soup
along with your corned beef and cabbage and green beer this coming
St. Patrick's Day ( Monday, March 17 ), a special time when everyone,
even Austrian-born Americans like me, can celebrate their Irish
heritage. But there's nothing humble about my approach to potato soup.
I love the rich yet mild, earthy flavor of potatoes, especially the
buttery flavored, smooth-textured, moderately starchy yellow-fleshed
varieties most commonly known as Yukon Gold, which are available ever
more widely today. Using those potatoes (or, if you can't find them,
regular Idaho-style baking potatoes) as my main ingredient, I add a
complex, aromatic foundation of flavor with chopped leeks, onion,
carrot, and garlic, which I first soften in a little butter. Next, I
add some flour, which will help to make the end results thick and
smooth, and chicken broth, yielding the base in which I then simmer
the diced potatoes to tenderness. Finally come the steps that
transform my potato soup into something truly rich and memorable.
First, I stir part of the soup liquid together with some shredded
sharp Cheddar cheese. The flour that has already been incorporated
into the cooking liquid helps the cheese to blend in flawlessly. At
this point, you could puree the potatoes and other vegetables if you
prefer a smooth soup to a chunky one. If you do, though, I recommend
pushing the solids through a ricer or a hand-turned food mill;
pureeing them in a blender or food processor can yield gummy potatoes.
Finally, a little cream is added to complement and harmonize with all
the other flavors. But the special touches don't stop there. So many
bowls of soup make the transition from good to great thanks to their
garnishes, and my potato soup is no exception. In addition to using
chopped fresh herbs, I'd ordinarily garnish each serving with some
crumbled crispy bacon. Not for St. Patrick's Day , though. On this
occasion, I love to top each bowl of soup with some corned beef, which
you can find ready to use in your best local deli or the supermarket.
One spoonful, and you'll swear that you've got the luck of the Irish!
HEARTY POTATO SOUP WITH IRISH CHEDDAR AND CORNED BEEF Serves 6 1/4 cup
unsalted butter 2 small leeks, trimmed, slit lengthwise, thoroughly
washed, and chopped 1 large yellow onion, chopped 1 carrot, peeled and
chopped 1 garlic clove, minced 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 6 cups
organic store-bought chicken broth 3 pounds baking potatoes, peeled
and cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1 pound sharp Cheddar cheese, preferably
Irish, shredded 1/3 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black
pepper 1 cup heavy cream 1/4 pound thinly sliced lean corned beef,
chopped 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives or scallions In a
large saucepan, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the chopped
leeks, onion, carrot, and garlic. Saute the vegetables, stirring
occasionally, until they are glossy and have started to soften, about
5 minutes. Stirring continuously, sprinkle in the flour. Still
stirring, gradually pour in the chicken broth. Add the potatoes. Bring
the liquid to a boil. Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer and cook,
partially covered, until the potatoes are tender enough to be pierced
easily with a table fork, about 15 minutes. Put the shredded cheese in
a large heatproof mixing bowl. Ladle in about a quarter of the hot
liquid from the soup and stir with a sturdy wooden spoon until the
cheese has completely melted and is fully blended in. Carefully pour
the cheese mixture back into the saucepan and stir until fully
incorporated. Stirring continuously, gradually pour in the heavy cream
and add the salt and pepper. Continue to heat the soup until it almost
reaches the boiling point. Turn off the heat, taste the broth, and
adjust the seasonings if necessary with a little more salt and pepper.
Ladle the soup into heated bowls. Garnish each serving with the
chopped corned beef and the chopped chives or scallions. Serve
immediately.
This news arrived on: 03/12/2008
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