Pan Roasted Chicken with Whole-Grain Mustard and Port
By Wolfgang Puck, Tribune Media Services
AN EASY ROAST CHICKEN YOU'LL CRAVE You know a recipe you've cooked is
a classic when people remember it and crave it years, or even decades,
after they first ate it. That's what happened with me recently when an
old friend, a business mogul who had lived in London for many years
and just moved back to California, stopped by for dinner at Spago in
Beverly Hills. "Can you make me that chicken you used to make with the
whole-grain mustard sauce?" he asked. I paused a moment, then told him
I didn't remember ever serving such a dish at Spago. "No," my friend
said. "You cooked it for me at Ma Maison." Well, I left Ma Maison back
in 1981 before opening the first Spago early the following year.
That's a long time for someone to remember something they'd eaten.
Fortunately, I have a good memory for things I've cooked, so I knew
what dish he was referring to, and I was happy to cook it for him. One
of the best things about that chicken recipe, apart from its memorable
taste, is how easy and inexpensive it is to make, even at home,
whether you prepare it for a special dinner party or even a weeknight
family meal. What makes the recipe a classic? First, it's the way the
chicken is cooked. For roasting, I always like to butterfly a whole
chicken, cutting out its backbone and flattening it, a simple process
I describe in the recipe I share with you here. Then, I brown the
chicken skin-down in an ovenproof skillet before finishing the cooking
in the oven. The result is a beautiful, evenly cooked bird with
crispy, golden-brown skin. For the best flavor possible and the most
healthy and responsible approach to cooking and eating, by the way, I
also try whenever possible to use organic free-range chickens. Then
there's the sauce. It's really simple to make, a quick reduction of
port wine and chicken broth. You don't need to use an expensive bottle
of port, either; any domestic or imported tawny or ruby port will do
fine. Next, the sauce is enriched with a little cream and, finally,
the whole-grain mustard (in the style of Meaux, France, available in
most food stores) and some Dijon mustard are stirred in at the last
minute, naturally thickening the sauce. Just be sure to reduce the
heat to low before you add the mustard, so it will blend smoothly and
won't form clumps. That's all there is to it. And the result is a
roast chicken that will linger in the memories of the people who eat,
and give you the reputation of a wonderful cook capable of creating a
kitchen classic. PAN-ROASTED CHICKEN WITH WHOLE-GRAIN MUSTARD AND PORT
Serves 4 1 whole frying chicken, about 4 pounds 3 tablespoons
extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 cup port wine 1/2 cup store-bought organic
chicken broth 1/3 cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1
tablespoon Meaux (whole-grain) mustard Salt Freshly ground black
pepper 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley leaves 2 tablespoons
finely chopped fresh tarragon leaves Preheat the oven to 400 degrees
F. Meanwhile, butterfly the chicken. With poultry shears or a sharp
knife, very carefully cut along the ribs on both sides of the backbone
to remove it. Spread out the chicken, skin up, on a clean work surface
and press down firmly with the heel of your hand to flatten the
chicken. Over high heat, preheat a heavy ovenproof skillet large
enough to hold the flattened chicken. Add the olive oil and swirl it
in the skillet. As soon as you begin to see slight wisps of smoke,
carefully place the chicken skin side down in the skillet. Sear the
chicken, undisturbed, while reducing the heat little by little to
medium, until its skin has turned golden brown and crisp, 5 to 7
minutes. With tongs or a large fork, carefully turn the chicken skin
side up. Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast until the chicken
is deep golden brown and the juices run clear when the thickest part
of the thigh is pierced with a skewer, 10 to 15 minutes. When the
chicken is done, transfer it to a carving board, and cover with
aluminum foil to keep it warm. Pour off all but a thin layer of fat
from the skillet. Add the port, put the skillet over high heat, and
boil until the port has reduced by half, about 5 minutes, stirring and
scraping with a wooden spoon to deglaze the pan deposits. Add the
broth and continue boiling until the liquid has reduced by half again,
about 7 minutes. Stir in the cream, bring the liquid back to a boil,
and cook for about 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, stir in the
Dijon and Meaux mustards, and adjust the seasonings to taste with salt
and pepper. With a heavy knife, cut the chicken into serving pieces.
Return the chicken pieces to the skillet, spoon some of the sauce over
them, and sprinkle with parsley and tarragon before serving.
This news arrived on: 02/27/2008
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