A SIDE O' GREEN NOODLES
By Wolfgang Puck, Tribune Media Services
Once a year on St. Patrick's Day , March 17 , it can seem as if the
whole world has turned Irish. And I see most of the evidence, not
surprisingly, in the world of food. Many people eat corned beef and
cabbage on St. Patrick's Day . Bars, whether they're Irish themed or
not, add food coloring to their beer to turn it green. And I've seen
so many different dishes that get a similar touch of blarney, from
green pizza dough (colored and flavored with dried spinach powder, of
course) to green-tinted cookies and cupcakes with emerald-green
frosting. As someone who named his own first restaurant Spago, Italian
slang for spaghetti, I like to turn my pasta green -- and not just on
March 17 . On another occasion, I've shared with you one of my
favorite recipes for pesto, one of my favorite green pasta sauces, a
blend of fresh basil, garlic, pine nuts, Parmesan cheese and olive
oil, as brightly colored as it is fragrant and flavorful. I also love
to color and flavor fresh pasta dough with spinach and serve it with
sauces of meat and tomatoes or cream and cheese. Delicious. For this
coming St. Patrick's Day , however, I'd like to offer you a different
way to make a very special green pasta dish. It's a little bit
Italian, because it features macaroni and Parmesan cheese; a little
bit Gallic, because it's baked as a gratin (French for "crust,"
referring to its golden topping of melted cheese); and, of course, a
little bit Irish, thanks to its bright color. The secret to the
vibrant flavor and appearance of this dish is a whole bunch of fresh
basil leaves, which you'll cut into thin julienne strips and steep in
a simple cream sauce. Then you toss the sauce with macaroni cooked al
dente, tender but still chewy because it will cook a bit longer in the
oven; top it with cheese; and baked it until crusty and golden. For
such a simple recipe, its versatility will delight you. You can serve
it as an appetizer or as a side dish for roast meat, poultry, or
seafood. In place of the macaroni, you can substitute penne or any
other pasta shape you like, just as long as you don't overcook it. For
a light luncheon, accompany it with a tossed green salad and a crusty
loaf of bread. Or buy some good quality precooked ham or, better still
for the coming occasion, corned beef, dice the meat, toss it with the
pasta and sauce, top with the cheese and -- voila (or should I say
"begorrah"?) -- you've got a perfect main course for St. Paddy's Day.
MACARONI GRATIN WITH FRESH BASIL Serves 4 or 5 1 quart heavy cream 1
bunch fresh basil 8 ounces dried macaroni 1 tablespoon mild-flavored
vegetable oil, such as safflower oil Salt Freshly ground white pepper
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 1/4 cup finely shredded Swiss
cheese In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the cream to a
boil; reduce the heat to maintain a brisk simmer and continue
simmering until the cream has reduced by half, to 2 cups, about 15
minutes. Meanwhile, separate the basil leaves from their stems,
discarding the stems. Rinse the leaves thoroughly with cold running
water and dry them completely with paper towels. To cut them into
julienne strips, neatly stack several leaves, roll them up into a
cigar shape, and cut across the roll in thin slices with a small,
sharp knife. Repeat with the remaining leaves and set aside. When the
cream has reduced, stir in the julienne of basil and continue to
simmer, stirring occasionally, until the cream is thick enough to coat
the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes more. Meanwhile, bring a large
pot of salted water to a boil. Pour in the macaroni and add the oil.
Boil until the macaroni is al dente, tender but still chewy, about 10
minutes or following the manufacturer's suggested cooking time. Drain.
Preheat the broiler. Butter a shallow ovenproof serving dish. Add the
drained macaroni to the pan of basil cream. Stir thoroughly, until the
macaroni is evenly coated. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.
Pour the mixture into the prepared serving dish. In a small mixing
bowl, toss together the Parmesan and Swiss cheeses. Sprinkle them
evenly over the macaroni. Place the dish under the broiler and broil
just a few minutes, watching carefully, until the cheese has melted
and the top is lightly browned. Serve immediately. (Chef Wolfgang
Puck's TV series, "Wolfgang Puck's Cooking Class," airs Sundays on the
Food Network. Also, his latest cookbook, "Wolfgang Puck Makes It
Easy," is now available in bookstores. Write Wolfgang Puck in care of
Tribune Media Services Inc., 2225 Kenmore Ave., Suite 114, Buffalo,
N.Y. 14207.)
This news arrived on: 03/14/2007
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