Falling in love with the Matterhorn
Gornergrat is my pick if you can fit in only one high-mountain excursion, simply because it's a best-of-all-worlds experience: sweeping views from the top station, and my favorite hike in the region between the Rotenboden and Riffelberg train stops. Whichever excursions you opt for, pay close attention to the weather -- the lifts aren't cheap, and none of them is worth the cost if the Matterhorn is shrouded by clouds.
That said, don't wait for perfectly clear skies to head into the hills -- even in bright, sunny weather, the Matterhorn loves playing peek-a-boo behind the clouds. If it's at least sunny-ish, get up the mountainside. Like me, you may find love at first sight of the Matterhorn.
IF YOU VISIT...
SLEEPING: Hotel Jägerhof has 49 homey rooms and 7 apartments with lots of rustic charm, just a 10-minute walk from the center (moderate, www.jaegerhofzermatt.ch). Hotel Bahnhof is a respectable no-frills option with tidy alpine-style rooms across the street from the train station (budget, www.hotelbahnhofzermatt.com).
EATING: Whymper-Stube specializes in raclette and meat-and-cheese fondue in a cozy space with friendly staff (splurge, Bahnhofstrasse 80, www.whymper-stube.ch). Stadel is a small restaurant that dishes up homemade Swiss specialties with a smile (moderate, Bahnhofstrasse 45, www.stadel-zermatt.ch).
GETTING AROUND: Cars are not allowed: Drivers park in a pay lot and take a shuttle train into town. You'll do a lot of walking, but handy buses make several stops.
TOURIST INFORMATION: www.zermatt.ch.
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(Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.)
(c)2020 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.
