Venetian crafts have deep roots
If you're serious about buying glass, steer clear of the cheap knickknacks (most likely from China) in tourist shops. To sample the art form, visit a Murano showroom, some of which have adjoining workshops that welcome the public. The glass museum on Murano (Museo del Vetro) is a good place to train your eye before you shop.
Lace
Just as Murano is known for glass, the lagoon island of Burano is famous for lace. Back in the day, fishermen's wives kept themselves busy by mending nets, an occupation said to have evolved into lace making about 500 years ago.
Burano specializes in "needle lace" -- made only with needle and thread (no bobbins). At the height of Burano's popularity, fine Venetian tablecloths and linens embellished Europe's most prestigious homes, and needle lace decorated cuffs, gowns, and frilly collars with intricate flowers, leaves, and curling stems.
Lace lovers will find the journey to Burano worthwhile. Shops proudly display painstakingly produced pieces, made by meticulously following time-honored patterns passed down from older generations. (But beware: there's plenty of machine-made lace on view as well.)
Production of needle lace has declined, in no small measure because of the time it takes to finish even a small piece; a tablecloth can take 30 workers and three years to complete. But residents cherish the art form and are working to ensure its survival. The Burano Lace Museum (Museo del Merletto) is a good first stop for visitors, with a first-rate collection and frequent lace-making demonstrations.
I'm not big on souvenir shopping, and I'll always prioritize a memory-creating experience over anything else. But I appreciate that Venice has preserved essential aspects of its history and culture by maintaining its craft traditions. Picking up a mask, glass piece, or lace doily as a memento of your trip is a great way of capturing the essence of Venice for years to come.
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(Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.)
(c)2019 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.
