At Siena's Palio, 500 years of history in 90 seconds
We zipped out into the street to join the ecstatic mobs coursing toward the cathedral. The happy "Lupa-Lupa-Lupa!" horde thundered through town, weeping with joy. At the cathedral, the crowd packed in, and the winning contrada received the beloved banner -- champions ... until the next race.
The August 2016 race I witnessed was historic: For the first time in over a century, the same contrada won both the July and the August races (and Lupa had gone 27 years without a win). Seeing euphoria overcome members of the winning contrada reminded me that it's impossible for a tourist to really understand what this ritual race means to the people of Siena.
Carrying their new trophy and hoisting their jockey high, the Lupa contingent tumbled out of the cathedral and back out into the streets of Siena, where the celebration would continue until the wee hours -- 500 years of tradition, still going strong.
IF YOU VISIT...
SLEEPING: The aristocratic Pensione Palazzo Ravizza, once the luxurious residence of a noble family, boasts panoramic views of the Siena countryside and a lush tiered garden (splurge, www.palazzoravizza.it). For a relaxing, good-value room in the heart of the city, consider Piccolo Hotel Etruria.
EATING: Pizzeria San Martino offers delicious pizza at a decent price near Il Campo, perfect for a quick lunch or dinner (Via del Porrione 64). La Taverna di San Giuseppe serves modern Tuscan dishes in a medieval vault (Via Giovanni Dupre 132, www.tavernasangiuseppe.it).
GETTING AROUND: Most tourist destinations are within a 15-minute walk of the main square. Don't plan on using a car -- driving in the city center is a no-go for nonresidents.
TOURIST INFORMATION: www.terresiena.it.
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(Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.)
(c)2017 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.
